Cassino Pk

(3 routes)

(Southern Grey Virgin).
Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna, were collectively known as the Grey Virgins.
Attempts to climb them were made over many years and they were among the last significant peaks in
the Alps to be climbed. Cassino Peak was originally climbed from the Grey Glacier along the South
Ridge. From the low summit, traverse under rock pinnacles and up the right-hand face to the summit
John Harrison, Ian Baine, B H (Snow) Williams, L G Osborne, 29 December 1952

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BX16 945 859
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South Ridge
Climb from the Grey Névé above the icefall to the hanging glacier. Then follow steep snow and rock to the Main Divide onto the low summit. Traverse under rock pinnacles between the summits and up the right hand face to the summit proper.
John Harrison, Ian Baine, B H (Snow) Williams, Dec 1952
From the West 2+
From the lower Gino Watkins Glacier access the West Ridge. Up to the 2200-metre contour this ridge has been used as access by climbing parties camping on the Nansen Glacier. From the upper Nansen névé, climb the ridge to the summit.
Laurie Osborne, Bruce Waterhouse, John Harrison, B H (Snow) Williams, Jan 1954
North Ridge (Main Divide) 2+
Climbed from the Nansen névé, approaching the peak from the north, mostly up the face. On the first ascent a good snow lead took the party to the Main Divide North Ridge about 150 metres below the summit. Several pitches of mixed climbing led to the top. Descent via a snowface and a couple of snow gullies back to the Nansen.
John Nankervis, Phil Castle, Grant Stotter, Pat Thorn, Dec 1978
Alex Plaman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club