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The Agony and the Ecstasy

Grade
20
Length
74m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Ruari Macfarlane, Dec 2023
Located on

A stellar (but SHARP) face crack (hands/fist) variation finish to There Will Be blood. Climb P1 of TWBB to gear belay at main ledge, then place a couple pieces of gear in the corner directly above the anchor (the first few meters on P2 of TWBB) then commit to moving up and left, and through a bulge into easier climbing and gear above to the top. You can finish by moving left just below the lip to avoid the sharpest final steep bit. Good belay on small cams or big slung block on slab above.
Walk off in gully to North as for TWBB (a steep descent down the gully just right/south may also be possible).


  • P1
  • 20
  • 47m
  • Trad

Climb P1 of TWBB to gear belay at main ledge.


  • P2
  • 17
  • 27m
  • Trad

Place a couple pieces of gear up the corner directly above the anchor (the first few meters of TWBB Pitch 2) then commit to moving up and left through a bulge into easier climbing up a crack (jams and gear) to the top. Finish by moving left just below the lip to avoid the sharpest final steep bit. Good belay on small cams or big slung block on slab above.


Comments
UUID
 
badfd701-5ea6-4580-a232-63e588d87d5d