A set of large East-facing marble cliffs housing multipitch potential for trad, mixed pro and sport climbs. These are on the climbers right side (West Side) of the valley between 'Staircase' and Granity Pass hut, on the Granity Pass track (Mt Owen). They face the established Staircase crag routes on the other (East side) of the valley.
From Courthouse Flat (The Wangapeka River Roadend), take the track to Granity Pass. After descending the 'Staircase' (map name, and the access to the multipitch 'Staircase Crag' - see Mt Owen guidebook), fill your drinkbottles at the sidestream (2hrs from car) and continue another 5 minutes along the track through beech forest to the site of the old prospectors hut. Large cliffs can be seen through the trees on the West side of the valley below pt 1507 - they are your destination (the large cliff opposite, on the East side, is Staircase crag). From here, leave the track, cross the creek into the open and go up a large scree fan, easiest on the climbers right side. At the top are the Prospector Cliffs; the base of climbs can be accessed by gaining the highest grass shelf under the cliffs and sidling upwards along it (a few exposed spots; careful if wet). Routes can be descended by walking off via a scrubby gully to the North(snap a reference photo on the approach), back to an easy sidle below the cliffs / above bushline, or possibly by the central gully that splits them. There are several promising bivvy caves along the base of the cliffs but no water on-site.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
There Will be Blood | 20 | 72m | ||||
The Agony and the Ecstasy | 20 | 74m |