Charlie Creese put up the first climbs at Paines Ford on this wall in the early 1980s. An open, pleasant hangout that gets heaps of traffic.
Track one.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Bt | BtBlobbet, 16 | 16 | 14m | 4 | |||
Fun climbing on good holds until some tricky slopey moves leap out to surprise you near the end. |
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GP | GPGood Bye Cream Poofters, 17 | 17 | 15m | 4 | |||
One of the first climbs at Paines and an obligatory classic. A tricky bulge, then up to an exhilarating top-out. |
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Why Would You Wave at a One-armed Man on a Bicycle?, 25 | 25 | 16m | 5 | ||||
One of Hobie's stories. A fiery little number up the arete. Start from a mono to an edge for the first clip, into some reachy moves with tenuous feet and then easing off for the finish. |
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RB | RBRe-election Blues, 16 | 16 | 16m | 2 | |||
The obvious groove that is overcome with crafty bridging. Step left to the bolt and take on the juggy finish. |
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Golden Years, 15 | 15 | 16m | 4 | ||||
Start in the scoop as for Re-election Blues then climb the short wall above. |
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MC | MCMid-Wife Crisis, 14 | 14 | 18m | 7 | |||
Excellent for your first grade 14. It's long and well-protected with groovy moves at the third bolt. |
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Calling All Hobbits, 12 | 12 | 8m | 1 | ||||
A short juggy arete. |
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ET | ETElvis Lives in Takaka, 18 | 18 | 18m | 5 | |||
Many claim to have seen him. Quite delightful. |
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Bb | BbBlockbuster, 19 | 19 | 18m | 5 | |||
Moderate climbing accumulates to become quite a pumpfest. Start from Bite My Chunk and drift left to share the anchor with Elvis Lives in Takaka. |
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Bite My Chunk, 19 | 19 | 18m | 5 | ||||
Looks a bit dodgy due to the bulge out right and also a bit contrived as the bulge is not meant to be used, but the climbing above is worth it. |
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FV | FVThe Fearless Vampire Killers, 20 | 20 | 18m | 4 | |||
Climb the slab, commit to a couple of moves over the bulge and good holds will come your way. Don't forget your garlic. |
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Gorgonzola Goes, 15 | 15 | 18m | 6 | ||||
Climb diagonally right to the ledge, then straight up. Used to need thread runners – they're now optional. |
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Cheddarmasters Choice, 15 | 15 | 18m | 3 | ||||
Start as for Gorgonzola Goes, but head right. |
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HY | HYHula Yula, 19 | 19 | 14m | 4 | |||
A steep start past the hole then move over the bulge and onto the slab. |
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Spotty Brit, 23 | 23 | 14m | 4 | ||||
A bit tricky to clip the first bolt, then cranky moves over the bulge to a positive pocket. |
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Tongue in Groove, 20 | 20 | 14m | 4 | ||||
A really good climb with excellent potential for getting yourself wedged. Casual slab up to the chain. |
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Sweet Dreams, 21 | 21 | 16m | 3 | ||||
A fun, juggy and steep start to a fingery crux past the second bolt. Most enjoyable. |
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Hunting Tartan, 18 | 18 | 24m | 8 | ||||
A long, exhilarating number. Start just right of the Tongue in Groove hole and traverse right past Sweet Dreams. Climb past the hole, over the bulge and to the top of the wall. |
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SP | SPSomething Precious, 21 | 21 | 18m | 3 | |||
The left side of the Rawhide roof, past a ledge with a small cam to the steep face above. Eventually the terrain becomes nice and slabby. |
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Rh | RhRawhide, 22 | 22 | 18m | 5 | |||
The Rawhide roof is an impressive feature with crazy rounded jugs. The holds are large but the climbing is steep and pumpy. Boulder out to a rest just after the first bolt (or stick clip) and charge up the roof. Don't lose it on the slab, it's still pretty tricky. |
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Rs | RsRumplestiltskin, 23 | 23 | 18m | 6 | |||
From the first bolt of Rawhide, go right through the big roof. Follow the slab and arete past the lip. |
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Easiest Out, V4 | V4 | ||||||
Start on the block at the back of the roof (one metre left of the big boulder) and exit to the lip the easiest way possible. |
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Straight Out, V8 | V8 | ||||||
Burly bouldering. Start on the block at the back of the roof and head directly out on good but spaced holds. |