Creese Wall

(23 routes)

Charlie Creese put up the first climbs at Paines Ford on this wall in the early 1980s. An open, pleasant hangout that gets heaps of traffic.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West
Walk time: 
5 min
Access: 

Track one.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Bt Blobbet 16 14m
1.02
4bolts
Fun climbing on good holds until some tricky slopey moves leap out to surprise you near the end.
Floppy the Dog, 1996
GP Good Bye Cream Poofters 17 15m
2.01
4bolts
One of the first climbs at Paines and an obligatory classic. A tricky bulge, then up to an exhilarating top-out.
Charlie Creese, 1980s
Why Would You Wave at a One-armed Man on a Bicycle? 25 16m
0
5bolts
One of Hobie's stories. A fiery little number up the arete. Start from a mono to an edge for the first clip, into some reachy moves with tenuous feet and then easing off for the finish.
RB Re-election Blues 16 16m
1.02
2bolts
The obvious groove that is overcome with crafty bridging. Step left to the bolt and take on the juggy finish.
Golden Years 15 16m
0
4bolts
Start in the scoop as for Re-election Blues then climb the short wall above.
Phil Castle, 2005
MC Mid-Wife Crisis 14 18m
2.01
7bolts
Excellent for your first grade 14. It's long and well-protected with groovy moves at the third bolt.
Kath Meek, 2001
Calling All Hobbits 12 8m
0
1bolts
A short juggy arete.
Tony Clearwater, 1995
ET Elvis Lives in Takaka 18 18m
1.02
5bolts
Many claim to have seen him. Quite delightful.
Rob McLeod, 1980s
Bb Blockbuster 19 18m
1.02
5bolts
Moderate climbing accumulates to become quite a pumpfest. Start from Bite My Chunk and drift left to share the anchor with Elvis Lives in Takaka.
Rob McLeod, 1980s
Bite My Chunk 19 18m
1.02
5bolts
Looks a bit dodgy due to the bulge out right and also a bit contrived as the bulge is not meant to be used, but the climbing above is worth it.
Team Effort, 1996
FV The Fearless Vampire Killers 20 18m
1.02
4bolts
Climb the slab, commit to a couple of moves over the bulge and good holds will come your way. Don't forget your garlic.
Spence Pomeroy
Gorgonzola Goes 15 18m
1.02
6bolts
Climb diagonally right to the ledge, then straight up. Used to need thread runners – they're now optional.
The Toad, 1997
Cheddarmasters Choice 15 18m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Start as for Gorgonzola Goes, but head right.
HY Hula Yula 19 14m
1.02
4bolts
A steep start past the hole then move over the bulge and onto the slab.
Spotty Brit 23 14m
1.02
4bolts
A bit tricky to clip the first bolt, then cranky moves over the bulge to a positive pocket.
John Row, 1996
Tongue in Groove 20 14m
1.02
4bolts
A really good climb with excellent potential for getting yourself wedged. Casual slab up to the chain.
John Row, 1996
Sweet Dreams 21 16m
1.02
3bolts
A fun, juggy and steep start to a fingery crux past the second bolt. Most enjoyable.
Colin Daniel, 1993
Hunting Tartan 18 24m
1.02
8bolts
A long, exhilarating number. Start just right of the Tongue in Groove hole and traverse right past Sweet Dreams. Climb past the hole, over the bulge and to the top of the wall.
Willie Butler, 2002
SP Something Precious 21 18m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
The left side of the Rawhide roof, past a ledge with a small cam to the steep face above. Eventually the terrain becomes nice and slabby.
Dave Skilton, 1985
Rh Rawhide 22 18m
3
5bolts
The Rawhide roof is an impressive feature with crazy rounded jugs. The holds are large but the climbing is steep and pumpy. Boulder out to a rest just after the first bolt (or stick clip) and charge up the roof. Don't lose it on the slab, it's still pretty tricky.
Mike Rockell, 1987
Rs Rumplestiltskin 23 18m
1.02
6bolts
From the first bolt of Rawhide, go right through the big roof. Follow the slab and arete past the lip.
Kristen Foley, 1993
Easiest Out V4
1.02
Start on the block at the back of the roof (one metre left of the big boulder) and exit to the lip the easiest way possible.
Straight Out V8
1.02
Burly bouldering. Start on the block at the back of the roof and head directly out on good but spaced holds.

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