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Upper North Face

Type
Part of

Compact, well-featured rock.

Aspect
North
Approach

There are two access routes to the North Face of Moir depending on the amount of snow in the upper basin. Be aware that the snow field breaks up early summer and has the potential to slide into the depths of the Cleddau Valley.

  1. Climb the ridge over Moir's Mate and descend into the upper cirque: the safest route early in the summer.
  2. Sidle under Moir's Mate to the Cleddau Ledges (narrow rock ledges under the Mate’s Little Brother) and across to the North Face of Moir and Cleddau Buttress.
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Big Pink, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Two pitches. The largest blocky pillar onto the West Ridge of Moir ridge, directly behind the Little Brother.


 Butterbeans in Hyperspace, 16,A1 16,A1 0m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Aid A1
  • Trad

Four pitches. 16, 16, A1, 15. At the head of the cirque, a groove on the left side of a slab.


 Denz Herron 0m
0

  • P1
  • Trad

Four pitches. Move up a prominent corner (second corner left of the central pillar); hard free-climbing with a little aid through a small overhang.


 Denz Hudson, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Take the dominant corner just left of the main pillar in the centre of the north face, with some free-climbing through overhangs. Variation on roof pitch, going left, 17.


 Begg Clark Wayatt, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18

Nine pitches. Climb 100m up slabs, then 200m on a clean pillar to the top of the face. The original ascent involved a few points of aid.


Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
a6733105-7ac6-4ec2-a172-c142189e06ec