Upper North Face

(5 routes)

Compact, well-featured rock.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

There are two access routes to the North Face of Moir depending on the amount of snow in the upper basin. Be aware that the snow field breaks up early summer and has the potential to slide into the depths of the Cleddau Valley.
1. Climb the ridge over Moir's Mate and descend into the upper cirque: the safest route early in the summer.
2. Sidle under Moir's Mate to the Cleddau Ledges (narrow rock ledges under the Mate’s Little Brother) and across to the North Face of Moir and Cleddau Buttress.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Big Pink 18
0
wire representing trad
Two pitches. The largest blocky pillar onto the West Ridge of Moir ridge, directly behind the Little Brother.
Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, March 1977.
Butterbeans in Hyperspace 16
0
wire representing trad
Four pitches. 16, 16, A1, 15. At the head of the cirque, a groove on the left side of a slab.
Russell Braddock, Luke Newnham, Mike Rockell, 1981
Denz Herron
0
wire representing trad
Four pitches. Move up a prominent corner (second corner left of the central pillar); hard free-climbing with a little aid through a small overhang.
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, 1974.
Denz Hudson 18
0
wire representing trad
Take the dominant corner just left of the main pillar in the centre of the north face, with some free-climbing through overhangs. Variation on roof pitch, going left, 17.
Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, 1977.
Begg Clark Wayatt 18
0
Nine pitches. Climb 100m up slabs, then 200m on a clean pillar to the top of the face. The original ascent involved a few points of aid.
Dave Begg, Bruce Clark, Geoff Wayatt, Jan 1974.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies