North Face

(9 routes)

The routes are located on the lower right side of the north face. The quality of the rock in this area is nothing short of unbelievable: extremely compact and well-featured.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

The lower Cleddau wall from the Homer Tunnel has been climbed to gain the foot of the buttress, but is a devious route.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
6 Mise en Scene 17 , 19 , 24 , 20 155m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start just left of the green corner, amble leftwards to bolt on arête then back right to obvious break.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11745mYes
 Start just left of the green corner, amble leftwards to bolt on arête then back right to obvious break.
21945mYes
 Go right from belay to shallow corner, traverse back left then angle up right up a steep ramp with natural pro to a roof. Traverse left under roof (a little loose). Clip bolt above roof then up right to belay.
32425mYes
 Go left off belay up thin wall to mantle then take the left of two hanging corners to belay.
42040mYes
 Not completed, 40m until easy ground.
Brian Alder, Pete Griffin, Gwilym Griffith Jones, Polly Stupples, Ben from Australia, Apr 1996.
7 Sewing of the Seam 20
1.02
wire representing trad
Four pitches. 18, 18, 20, 17. Follow the seam which forms a left-to-right diagonal between the two bolted routes. Gear is run-out at times but the crux is well protected. Pins were used for the first ascent.
Keith Riley, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000.
8 El Braveth 19 ,23 ,23 ,23 ,20 ,17 160m
3
18bolts wire representing trad
Six pitches, mixed protection, crux on fourth pitch. Attempted by various people between 1991 and 2009. The name is an acronym of the first letters of the last names of all involved in various stages of the first ascent.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11940m1Yes
 Start at the bottom of the largest snow patch. Up to bolt on slab then right into corner that leads up and right to triple bolt belay on ledge.
22325m2Yes
 Step back into the corner and up to the overlap that forms a continuation of the great roof line. Crank over with a bolt and traverse up right past another bolt and some gear to a double glue-in bolt belay on ledge.
32325m5Yes
 Step back left into the corner and up to bolts that lead up a slab rightwards. Pull the small overhang on jugs to double bolt belay.
42320m8No
 Climb the dyke feature, angling up and right.
52010m2Yes
 Straight up past two bolts. The trick is to get standing on top of the flake above the last bolt, then you can climb straight up to belay.
61740mYes
 Traverse 4m left to corner and up to the top of the pillar. Run out and a bit grassy. Single ring anchor.
Sarah Adcock, Kester Brown, February 2009
9 Project 19 , 18m
0
wire representing trad
Pull through broken corner to ledge, then tentative slab and crack climbing past three bolts to belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11918mYes
 Pull through broken corner to ledge, then tentative slab and crack climbing past three bolts to belay.
20mNo
 In progress.
Paul Rogers, 1997.
10 Project 16 , 21
0
Three pitches (16, 21, 19/A0). The third pitch traverses right under the big roof. A good potential line extends up a weakness above pitch two.
Kester Brown, Danny Wood, 2006
Biggs Marron
0
wire representing trad
Six pitches of aid through the big roof near the Cleddau Buttress, then up gullies to the ridge.
Barry Biggs, Reg Marron, Feb 1975.
Vindication II 19 , 20 , 24 , 25 , 22 , 20 145m
0
38bolts
“Hairier than Murray’s back. The rock is coarser than Cradock. Fantastic route guys and great rigging job" – Homer Hut book. A six-pitch sport route on immaculate rock. Take 15 quickdraws and belays, and two 60m ropes. Can be climbed at grade 22 A0 if you pull through the grade 24 & 25 crux moves on pitches three and four.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
119II15m5No
 Scramble up the the basre of the pillar forming the right side of the big roof. Double bolt belay to start.
22030m6No
32415m6No
42535m8No
52230m8No
62020m5No
Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Milo Gilmour, February 2009
Cleddau Buttress 17
2.01
wire representing trad
The route starts on the northern slopes of the buttress, gaining the crest after 100m. A bit grassy on the lower half, but a real adventure through a series of steep cracks in the centre of the buttress.
Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, Jan 1967.
Cleddau Buttress V WI3
0
From Homer Saddle weave along the ridge which can almost border on being alpine enough to require a rope. An exposed traverse under Moir’s Mate leads to good bivvy sites. Cross a narrow band under the Mates Little Brother then out across the slopes running down from the upper cirque to the buttress. Conditions on the bottom half of the buttress tend to be similar to summer with grassy sections leading up to a slab. Traverse down and into a gully on the edge of the West Face. From here the route continues up a series of iced up grooves. Steep rock with ice runnels and good rock pro. The descent via the southern edge of the West Face is straight forward. The original ascent was a three day round trip.
Geoff Gabites, Ken Hyslop, June 1975.
File attachments: 
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies