North Face

Start just left of the green corner, amble leftwards to bolt on arête then back right to obvious break.

Four pitches. 18, 18, 20, 17. Follow the seam which forms a left-to-right diagonal between the two bolted routes. Gear is run-out at times but the crux is well protected. Pins were used for the first ascent.

Six pitches, mixed protection, crux on fourth pitch. Attempted by various people between 1991 and 2009. The name is an acronym of the first letters of the last names of all involved in various stages of the first ascent.

Pull through broken corner to ledge, then tentative slab and crack climbing past three bolts to belay.

Three pitches (16, 21, 19/A0). The third pitch traverses right under the big roof. A good potential line extends up a weakness above pitch two.

Six pitches of aid through the big roof near the Cleddau Buttress, then up gullies to the ridge.

“Hairier than Murray’s back. The rock is coarser than Cradock. Fantastic route guys and great rigging job" – Homer Hut book. A six-pitch sport route on immaculate rock. Take 15 quickdraws and belays, and two 60m ropes. Can be climbed at grade 22 A0 if you pull through the grade 24 & 25 crux moves on pitches three and four.

The route starts on the northern slopes of the buttress, gaining the crest after 100m. A bit grassy on the lower half, but a real adventure through a series of steep cracks in the centre of the buttress.

From Homer Saddle weave along the ridge which can almost border on being alpine enough to require a rope. An exposed traverse under Moir’s Mate leads to good bivvy sites. Cross a narrow band under the Mates Little Brother then out across the slopes running down from the upper cirque to the buttress. Conditions on the bottom half of the buttress tend to be similar to summer with grassy sections leading up to a slab. Traverse down and into a gully on the edge of the West Face. From here the route continues up a series of iced up grooves. Steep rock with ice runnels and good rock pro. The descent via the southern edge of the West Face is straight forward. The original ascent was a three day round trip.