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Silverback in the Tussock

Natural pro required
First ascent
Peter Le, Shane Corbett, Jimmy Keswick, March 2023
Located on

An adventurous climb on the south face with some nice pitches of steep climbing on good rock. A mix of cracks and face climbing with cool positive edges, climbed in 7 pitches. Decent protection, though you may have to be a bit creative with digging dirt out of cracks. Double rack from 0.1 – 3 and nuts.
Start up the chimney feature on the left-hand side of the south face above the glacier. Break right at the end of the chimney and head towards an obvious roof feature above. Traverse left under the roof for 5m and climb up into a beautiful pitch of hand and fist crack climbing. After the crack ends climb the pillar traversing left again under a small rooflet. Continue up the face towards a steep section before gaining a ledge system. From here, traverse 60m left towards the col between the East and West Twin. Can be continued straight up into some wicked looking corner systems towards the summit of East Twin.
Descend by traversing over East Twin back to the slabs on the north side.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 350m
  • Trad