South West Face

(7 routes)

The South-west face is cut by two prominent fault lines. The right-hand fault extends from the base of the cliff to the summit and provides the start of the first three routes on the face.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
South West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South West Face
1.02
wire representing trad
nitial slabs lead to the obvious right-to-left corner in the right side of the face.
Murray Cullen, John Entwistle, 1974.
Wayatt Begg
1.02
wire representing trad
Starting as for the Clark Hudson route, exit left from the large open book corner via a loose ledge then climb the steep buttress for 60m ‘til it blends in with the summit headwall. Traverse right back into the corner below the final chimney pitch of the Clark Hudson route.
Geoff Wayatt, Dave Begg, Jan 1974.
Clark Hudson
1.02
wire representing trad
Start up a prominent nose on steep compact rock. Instead of traversing left on the Cullen/Entwistle route, climb directly up a short steep wall to the base of a large open book corner which splits the face; two pitches of excellent slab and crack climbing including some dynamic jamming protected by bomb proof chocks. Continue to a large roof which can be turned on the right by pleasant slabs and a slightly damp chimney.
Bruce Clark, Calum Hudson, Jan 1974.
South East Buttress 16
2.01
wire representing trad 1
A beautiful line up the dramatic buttress. Traverse left along a prominent ledge from the ridge and climb the buttress direct: four pitches. It is possible to rappel the route back to the ledges.
Bill Atkinson, Rick McGregor, Judy Terpstra, 1975.
California 18
1.02
wire representing trad
The routes are variations on the Original South East Buttress, taking lines up the beautiful rock slabs at the base of the buttress. Four pitches: 14, 18, 18, 14. Up a steep flaky crack system leading to the base of the South East Buttress; named California because it was full of loose flakes.
Calum Hudson, Paul Rogers, Mar 1988.
Fancy Pants and the Misfits 18 , 15
0
wire representing trad
The route are variations on the Original South East Buttress, taking lines up the beautiful rock slabs at the base of the buttress. Up through an overlap and onto a grooved slab to join the bottom of the South East Buttress . Straight up and over bulge, crux, to a belay on small ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mYes
 

The route are variations on the Original South East Buttress, taking lines up the beautiful rock slabs at the base of the buttress.
Up through an overlap and onto a grooved slab to join the bottom of the South East Buttress
. Straight up and over bulge, crux, to a belay on small ledge.

2150mYes
 

Trend left up grove past some large balanced chock stones to join the base of the buttress.

Thomas Evans, Mal Haskins, Michael Madden, Feb 2005.
Original Route
0
From Adelaide Saddle traverse round to the high peak.
Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, Nov 1936.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
5ff22ef4-e89e-4456-8208-3de67e039808