From tarns just below (east) of Harrison-John O'Groats saddle, ascend obvious steep gully through cliffs below peak 1627m. Sidle peak 1627m then descend towards Ongaruanuku. Scramble up and across southwest face then climb the steep gut to the obvious notch on the southeast ridge. Climb southeast ridge (on Kaipo side) to summit.
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Grant Dixon 15-3-2014