Kaipo Wall

(4 routes)

The 1300 metre high Kaipo Wall lies at the head of the Kaipo Valley, finishing on the snowfields of the Ngapunatoru Plateau.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Lat/Lon: 
-44.562710000000, 167.994776000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Fortune/Joll 21 A1 550m
2.01
wire representing trad
12 pitches.
Steve Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012
Rock Solid Route 19 , 17 , 18 , 24 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 17 , 18 , 15 , 20
3
Starting from the snow shelf half-way up the wall, the route climbs the buttress left of a large, right-facing arch. Access is by abseil from the Ngapunatoru Plateau. Bolt belays.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mNo
 

Right facing ramps and corners.

2170mNo
 

Continue up corner tending left in grooves.

3180mNo
 

Climb short face into groove, continue climbing groove and face to the right.

4240mNo
 

Stepping left from belay head up face left of arête on marginal gear into right tending flake systems. Traverse right to belay.

5230mNo
 

Up groove directly above belay then left around arête continuing up face. Trend right to belay.

6240mNo
 

Up flakes left of arête, follow seams diagonally rightwards to features above arches, belay out right in alcove.

7250mNo
 

Climb overhanging corner and crack above.

8170mNo
 

Straight up wall then trend right to belay in corner.

9180mNo
 

Head up and left from belay following corner and slabs for 40m.

10150mNo
 

Follow crack left of belay then up on jugs to large ledge.

11200mNo
 

Start up weakness left of belay and follow seam until a move right leads through an overlap.

Paul Rogers, Derek Thatcher, Mayan Gobat-Smith, Craig Jefferies, January 2007
2 Range Rover Route 17
0
wire representing trad
Start roughly in the middle of the wall below a damp gully which dominates the upper central part of the face. Solo slabs for about 650 metres; at the first steep wall climb just to the right of the central gully for about 550 metres then ascend the final 100 metres or so to the top. The climb was the second half of a film where the party rafted and kayaked down the Hollyford then climbed the Kaipo Wall. The total climb, including filming, took eight to nine hours. The party spent a week in a snow-cave on the Ngapunatoru Plateau after being caught in a nor-west storm.
Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, Mike Gill, Jan 1974.
The Kaipo Kid 18 620m
3
wire representing trad
On the north-west side of Pt 2072, an outlier peak to the west of the main Kaipo Wall.470m wall climbing then 150m cheval section. Mostly grade 14-17 climbing.
Daniel Joll. Steve Fortune, 2012
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
af37682f-e2e3-4a4b-b144-688bbcfcd1d9