Main Cliff / Lower Tier

(10 routes)

This is the steep wall in the middle of the Cirque, rising from the floor of the Cirque, directly ahead as one walks up the McPherson Cirque path from the Homer Tunnel.


Via the McPherson Cirque path to the foot of the cliff.

Descent is either abseil back down the route, or down the access descent route at the left hand end of the cliff.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Classic Hits and Memories III WI4
This is a steep interesting gully climb that at one point narrows into a chimney. Three to four enjoyable pitches.
Ros Goulding, Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992.
Blue IV WI4
Blue is an icicle that forms near the top of the cirque wall. The colour of it is quite striking, resembling the deep blue seen in seracs. Moderate climbing leads to a crux icicle.
Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992.
Gabites Rogan III WI3
The route lie immediately left of the large cleft. Takes the left-hand of the two ice runnels. Two pitches of steep climbing lead to a level bench then a further three pitches to the snowfield. This was the first winter route put up on the lower cirque.
Geoff Gabites, Kevin Rogan, 1973.
Gomer III 3
The route lies immediately left of the large cleft. The frozen waterfall right of the Gabites-Rogan route, joining it at half height.
Brian Weedon, Nigel Perry, July 1981.
The Celtic Connection III 7
Classic technical winter climbing with thin ice and adequate protection.
Alan Uren, Ron Dempster, Max Gough, July 2009
Rabbit Run III WI3
The large ramp and corner immediately right of Gomer.
Nigel Perry (solo), Aug 1981.
Ether IV 5 220m
wire representing trad
Takes the groove line from the top of the pedestal between Rabbit Run and Stirling Moss. Climbed with good neve and thin ice. A committing line with protection and belays hard to find.
S Fortune, B Dare, July 2015
Stirling Moss IV WI6
The gnarly central line which is a prominent waterfall during summer. The second pitch is what gave everybody such a hard time. The flow forms over a small roof and the icicle doesn’t often join up. The resulting pull on frozen moss has spat at least one climber off. After the crux there are a few pitches up a 70 degree path of usually good water ice. Stirling Moss is named after Dave Vass’ Triumph car which could almost find its own way to the Darrans from Dunedin. The route was ground down in July 1992 by two separate parties. Dave Fearnley, Matt Evrard, and Brian Alder climbed the crux lower pitches the day after Dave Vass and Allan Uren climbed the upper pitches by traversing in from the right.
Brian Alder, Matt Evrard, Dave Fearnley, July 1992.
Thrill Frenzy Ramp start to Stirling Moss IV WI5
If the lower pitches of Stirling Moss are absent it is possible to traverse in from the right on a steeply rising ramp which starts near a large overhang. Be prepared for some tricky mixed climbing protected with pitons.
Dave Vass, Allan Uren, July 1992.
1964 HQ Holden III WI3
Right of the start to Thrill Frenzy is an alcove. 1964 HQ Holden goes up the middle of this alcove. Watch out for monsters lurking in deep pools.
Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992.