Fun wee turf route best when conditions are thin. Joins Midnight Cowboy about 1/3-1/2 height. Pitches 1-2 can be avoided by scrambling to tussock ledge at the base of pitch 3 (see topo). Finish as for MC, or scramble down MC and rap to ledge (2x 60m ropes) and descend access route. Gear is generally medium wires, hexes and cams to size 1 if not too icy. Knifeblade pitons are handy. 1. Bridging up the gully right of original start to Midnight Cowboy. Average gear. 40m 2. Solo or easy pitch up tussock ramp tending left to reach ledge at base of obvious corner system. 60m 3. Up obvious corner to cave. Pull up out of roof (height is an advantage here) to a belay. Good gear. 50m 4. Climb above belay to strenuous undercling traverse right and into an awesome turf groove. Climb turf and exit at the top of the natural line to easy tussock ramp on Midnight Cowboy. Good gear. 40m
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J Morris 7/2013
Ruari Macfarlane and Jaz Morris, June 2013.