Access is via a shelf above Selwyn Creek (Harrison Valley), accessed by first ascent party via Tutoko Valley and Grave Couloir. Good campsites and poor bivvy rocks on the shelf. From the shelf gain steep slabs at 1500m and climb up and right to reach the crest of the North Rib, which can be followed for most of the route (crux grade 16). First ascent party traversed west of the rib twice on the lower half of the route, and briefly to the east 100m below the summit. Rock quality on the route is poor on most of the climb, except for the water-worn approach slabs, and heavily vegetated below 1950m. First ascent party soloed the route except for five 20-35m pitches: two at the start of the rib; two to gain the rib after the second traverse west; and one at the top of the rib. Abseil descent (single rope abseils recommended due to blocky rock; a rope jam at 2170m resulted in a forced bivvy – cold!). Party walked out via slabs below Ngapunatoru Plateau, Lake Never Never, Lake Pukutahi and Harrison Valley.
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Homer Hut Book
Rob Frost, Guy McKinnon, Andrei van Dusschoten, 26 January 2010