Access is via a shelf above Selwyn Creek (Harrison Valley), accessed by first
ascent party via Tutoko Valley and Grave Couloir. Good campsites and poor
bivvy rocks on the shelf. From the shelf gain steep slabs at 1500m and climb
up and right to reach the crest of the North Rib, which can be followed for
most of the route (crux grade 16). First ascent party traversed west of the
rib twice on the lower half of the route, and briefly to the east 100m below
the summit. Rock quality on the route is poor on most of the climb, except
for the water-worn approach slabs, and heavily vegetated below 1950m. First
ascent party soloed the route except for five 20-35m pitches: two at the
start of the rib; two to gain the rib after the second traverse west; and one
at the top of the rib. Abseil descent (single rope abseils recommended due to
blocky rock; a rope jam at 2170m resulted in a forced bivvy – cold!). Party
walked out via slabs below Ngapunatoru Plateau, Lake Never Never, Lake
Pukutahi and Harrison Valley.
