North Face

(2 routes)

Once described as ‘forbiddingly steep and dishearteningly vegetated’, the North Face of Marian is not for the faint-hearted. The original 1973 ascent was something of a breakthrough due to the level of commitment and unprotectable nature of the climbing.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
3 Left-hand Route
wire representing trad
21 pitches, all free except for 6m of aid through a roof starting 20m left of the original line. Climb slabs for five pitches towards the overhangs, avoiding the vegetation where possible. A short section of aid through the overhangs leads to slabs on the upper section of the wall. Follow the obvious weakness in the middle of the face until a complete lack of protection in the vegetated cracks forces you out left onto steep slabs. A short crux leads to easier climbing, 6-7 pitches, toward the summit. Ascended over three days in deteriorating weather!
John McCartney, Al Ritchie, Feb 1996.
4 Original Route A4 18
wire representing trad
24 pitches. Start at the highest point of the scree in the centre of the face; three pitches of slabs to a ledge, three pitches of steep wall climbing and two aid pitches to the lip of the roof. The grassy slabs above are climbed to the prominent large groove which is followed to its top, breaking out left onto ledges leading to the summit.
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Dec 1973.
Craig Jefferies