Once described as ‘forbiddingly steep and dishearteningly vegetated’, the North Face of Marian is not for the faint-hearted. The original 1973 ascent was something of a breakthrough due to the level of commitment and unprotectable nature of the climbing.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 3 | 3Left-hand Route | 0m |  |
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21 pitches, all free except for 6m of aid through a roof starting 20m left of the original line. Climb slabs for five pitches towards the overhangs, avoiding the vegetation where possible. A short section of aid through the overhangs leads to slabs on the upper section of the wall. Follow the obvious weakness in the middle of the face until a complete lack of protection in the vegetated cracks forces you out left onto steep slabs. A short crux leads to easier climbing, 6-7 pitches, toward the summit. Ascended over three days in deteriorating weather! |
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| 4 | 4Original Route A4, 18 | 18 | 0m | |
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24 pitches. Start at the highest point of the scree in the centre of the face; three pitches of slabs to a ledge, three pitches of steep wall climbing and two aid pitches to the lip of the roof. The grassy slabs above are climbed to the prominent large groove which is followed to its top, breaking out left onto ledges leading to the summit. |
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| Electric Earth, III,19 | III,19 | 740m | |||||
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This route is fully equipped for abseil descent (16 abseils). Bolts were placed with abseiling in mind rather than belaying, so at some belays/stances it will be more comfortable to belay on natural pro. Take a full rack (cams to #4 Friend, and double set of wires).
Climb diagonally right up slabby crack system to big ledge. Belay bolt at right end.
Step down right, then climb diagonally up right, traversing past plants and bulges to ledge. Belay on natural pro or at bolt up and left on ledges.
Climb up and right from bolt (or straight up if on natural belay) then up broken ground to belay bolt.
Thin moves and pro off belay, then easier to ledge. From ledge climb up cracks and slabs to 2 bolt belay below big overhang/recess.
Traverse left around arête and corner to grassy ledges. At drainage gully climb up approx. 50m to belay bolt in right wall. (Simulclimbed – 100m total).
Climb out of gully via right wall and up arête then grass, trending right to bolt.
Tricky moves through overlap above belay, then slabby rock and arête to belay bolt in top of corner.
Grassy at first, staying near arête then up to a left-facing corner crack – climb this and over bulge to a bolt.
Move right around arête and into grassy gully. Climb directly up to base or prominent ramp that slices the arête/headwall. Bolt at base of ramp.
Climb featured ramp/wall, keeping right (spaced pro), to slopey arête. Up arête and behind massive jammed block, then up final corner and crack to bolt/belay on slab. Scramble up to base of next wall, belay on cam and nut.
Short wall and grassy steps to bolt belay on left wall of loose gully.
Climb slab then chimney/bridge to ledge and final short overhanging corner. |
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