|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start at the best crossing point or schrund. Various cracks lead to easier angled terrain at 20m, approx. 10m left of Jones-Jones. Belay where wall steepens.
Straight up wall and cracks to easier angled grey slabs and belay in large L-R chimney.
Straight up deviously to easier ground moving slightly left.
Up rounded crack system moving L onto pillar. L from top of this and up steeply to technical slab on L. Up this and L again to diagonal break.
Straight up fantastic flake, scamper over roof, and straight up to easier ground.
Straight up and R to roof, round this and up to ledge. Gratuitously up wall above just cos it’s there to blocky belay 30m from summit.
Hugs not Drugs
Superb climbing on continuously technical and steep wall. Starts just left of Jones Jones at a vertical crack and goes more or less directly to the summit, keeping left of easier ground. Line described is not necessarily the least line of resistance or necessarily accurate as climbed in complete shmoo with 10-15 metres viz.
III 20 , 20 , 22 , 22 , 22 ,
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 12 February 2016