South Face

(7 routes)

Upper Marian Valley

Lots of unexplored terrain, easily achievable as a day trip from Homer Hut. A cosy biv site can be found 10 meters below Barrier Peak to the west on the Gertrude Valley side.

Face (Alpine)
Walk time: 
5 hours

Best accessed from Gertrude Valley via Barrier Face to Barrier-Crosscut col. Alternatively, access via Gertrude Saddle to Barrier Peak then scramble down ridge. Several pitches may be required to traverse exposed sections into upper terrace.

-44.751518000000, 168.037391000000
D40 173 944
CB09 072 327
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Mortensen Whiston
From the Barrier Crosscut Col, traverse to the terrace below the face to climb a line near the col.
Richard Mortensen, Neal Whiston. 1974.
Clark Gabites
Take the only continuous crack-line from the head of the Upper Marian to the South Ridge, offering 600m of good climbing. The route starts on the left side of the lower cirque wall.
Bruce Clark, Geoff Gabites, Dec 1974.
Denz Judge
Traverse across from the Barrier Crosscut col into the upper face; the route takes a narrow right-slanting ramp then directly up to the ridge on excellent rock. The traverse across the face to the start of the route is difficult and exposed.
Bill Denz, Murray Judge, Feb 1977.
Hillary Jones
A direct line through the lower cirque wall finishing 100m from the summit.
Peter Hillary, Murray Jones, Dec 1976.
JH Jaz Hands 17 240m
wire representing trad
Takes corner system up prominent buttress topping out on ridge 100m below summit. 5 pitches - good pro.
Jaz Morris, Michael Eatson
Peaking Pete 17 ,17 ,16 A2,19 ,14 ,17 A1,20 A2,17 , 440m
wire representing trad
Right facing corner goes up to belay on a ledge
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Right facing corner goes up to belay on a ledge


Parallel corners on good gear up to belay on legde


Handcrack up to small pendulum to right hand crack


Starts hard up thin corner, then moves right then easy right trending ledge , moving around chimney back left to good ledge directly under your belayer


Straight up


Rad chimney pitch with slight tension traverse right hand side of main feature. 17, A1, or 23-24 free


Move right around column features, then across to right hand corner. Up this corner, and then pendulum back left and up left hand corner to hanging belay


Go straight up, not left, stepping slightly right of belay att the cracks


Scramble over steep loose ground to ridge

Daniel Joll, Pete Harris
Uren - Skelton 19
5 0 6 pitches
Al Uren, Steve Skelton, March 2014
Craig Jefferies, Michael Eatson


Michael Eatson can yo redo the access topo with the yellow maybe in white and a larger font? and maybe increase the line width of the routes a couple of points too?

I can read the yellow lines on my PC monitor no problems, so perhaps cragrat is saying how about modernising topos so people with smart phones can read them?
Anyway I can't see where the bivi is on the topo, and I do not understand the description because I am uncertain of the aspect the main pic was taken from.
Is the bivi just below the summit on the other side of the main topo? I'd hate to be looking around for the bivi that was that high up without not knowing what side of the mountain to start looking.

Well not on a 12" laptop screen