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Upper Cirque Central Wall

Type

The cliff directly above the lower tier of cliffs, in the centre of the Cirque. This cliff may largely bank out and become snow covered as the season progresses.
Be very wary of snow conditions in the Upper Cirque.

Image
Aspect
South
Access

Via the McPherson Cirque path, and then either up the access/descent route at the left hand end of the lower tier, or climb one of the routes on the lower tier.
Best descent is either over the top to Talbot's Ladder, or abseil the route back into the floor of the Upper Cirque, dependent on the state of the snow above the cliff.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Bombay Sapphire, 4,III 4,III 150m
0

On the left hand side of the cliff, the steep ice flow is climbed in 3
pitches. The first pitch finishes at a superb belay cave.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 150m
  • Trad

 Elusive Leprechaun, III, 5 III, 5
0

III, 5, 3 pitches up LHS upper tier McPherson Cirque

 Cow Tools, II, 4 II, 4
0

Ice forming a pillar on LHS of cave

 Crystal Ship, III-IV, 6-7 III-IV, 6-7
0

A rarely formed, free hanging pillar over cave in middle of upper tier. Formed in the super season of 2015, not often seen in!

 Freeloading, 3,III 3,III
0

Consisting of 3 pitches of ice on the right hand side of the cliff, the
precise line of this route is uncertain. The ascent possibly took a line up
the wide icefall immediately to the right of the roofs. The grade is also
uncertain.
So named because Andy MacFarlane was becoming fed up with other Winter
climbers not paying their hut dues.....


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Trad

Comments
Attribution
Photodiagram - Steve Fortune
UUID
 
97f23871-889e-45cd-ab35-1abda95300f2