Main Cliff / Lower Tier

Type

Part of

This is the steep wall in the middle of the Cirque, rising from the floor of the Cirque, directly ahead as one walks up the McPherson Cirque path from the Homer Tunnel.

Aspect

South

Approach

Via the McPherson Cirque path to the foot of the cliff.
Descent is either abseil back down the route, or down the access descent route at the left hand end of the cliff.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Classic Hits and Memories, III,WI4	III,WI4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Water Ice WI4 This is a steep interesting gully climb that at one point narrows into a chimney. Three to four enjoyable pitches.
	Blue, IV,WI4	IV,WI4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Water Ice WI4 Blue is an icicle that forms near the top of the cirque wall. The colour of it is quite striking, resembling the deep blue seen in seracs. Moderate climbing leads to a crux icicle.
	Gabites Rogan, III,WI3	III,WI3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Water Ice WI3 The route lie immediately left of the large cleft. Takes the left-hand of the two ice runnels. Two pitches of steep climbing lead to a level bench then a further three pitches to the snowfield. This was the first winter route put up on the lower cirque.
	Gomer, III,3	III,3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Commitment) III The route lies immediately left of the large cleft. The frozen waterfall right of the Gabites-Rogan route, joining it at half height.
	The Celtic Connection, III,7	III,7	0m	0
Classic technical winter climbing with thin ice and adequate protection. P1 Alpine (Technical) 7 Alpine (Commitment) III
	Rabbit Run, III,WI3	III,WI3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Water Ice WI3 The large ramp and corner immediately right of Gomer.
	Ether, IV,5	IV,5	220m	0
Takes the groove line from the top of the pedestal between Rabbit Run and Stirling Moss. Climbed with good neve and thin ice. A committing line with protection and belays hard to find. P1 Alpine (Technical) 5 Alpine (Commitment) IV 220m Trad
	Stirling Moss, IV,WI6	IV,WI6	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Water Ice WI6 The gnarly central line which is a prominent waterfall during summer. The second pitch is what gave everybody such a hard time. The flow forms over a small roof and the icicle doesn’t often join up. The resulting pull on frozen moss has spat at least one climber off. After the crux there are a few pitches up a 70 degree path of usually good water ice. Stirling Moss is named after Dave Vass’ Triumph car which could almost find its own way to the Darrans from Dunedin. The route was ground down in July 1992 by two separate parties. Dave Fearnley, Matt Evrard, and Brian Alder climbed the crux lower pitches the day after Dave Vass and Allan Uren climbed the upper pitches by traversing in from the right.
	Thrill Frenzy Ramp start to Stirling Moss, IV,WI5	IV,WI5	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Water Ice WI5 If the lower pitches of Stirling Moss are absent it is possible to traverse in from the right on a steeply rising ramp which starts near a large overhang. Be prepared for some tricky mixed climbing protected with pitons.
	1964 HQ Holden, III,WI3	III,WI3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Water Ice WI3 Right of the start to Thrill Frenzy is an alcove. 1964 HQ Holden goes up the middle of this alcove. Watch out for monsters lurking in deep pools.

Comments

UUID

71effe2b-b13f-4c67-bc62-3158715328b0