Grade
II,4
Length
190m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
First ascent
Ruari Macfarlane and Jaz Morris, June 2013.
Located on
Fun wee turf route best when conditions are thin. Joins Midnight Cowboy about
1/3-1/2 height. Pitches 1-2 can be avoided by scrambling to tussock ledge at
the base of pitch 3 (see topo). Finish as for MC, or scramble down MC and rap
to ledge (2x 60m ropes) and descend access route. Gear is generally medium
wires, hexes and cams to size 1 if not too icy. Knifeblade pitons are handy.
- Bridging up the gully right of original start to Midnight Cowboy. Average
gear. 40m - Solo or easy pitch up tussock ramp tending left to reach ledge at base of
obvious corner system. 60m - Up obvious corner to cave. Pull up out of roof (height is an advantage
here) to a belay. Good gear. 50m - Climb above belay to strenuous undercling traverse right and into an
awesome turf groove. Climb turf and exit at the top of the natural line to
easy tussock ramp on Midnight Cowboy. Good gear. 40m
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 4
- Alpine (Commitment) II
- 190m
- Trad
Comments
Attribution
J Morris 7/2013
UUID
61d02fe6-27e4-48e5-b569-982e534a465b