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Gully to North Peak

First ascent
Merv English (solo), November 1976

Starting as for the Original west face route until the first cleft, moving
into a broad gully where possible. The route trends left out of the gully at
points to avoid steep ground but never strays from it entirely. At about half
height traverse some bulges, committing moves left, before regaining the
gully and summit. A long 1200m ice climb. Descend via the Original Route;
note that this involves tricky route finding and unstable snow late in the
afternoon. "For my level of fitness and understanding of the Darrans this
route was probably pushing it a bit. Diving home I woke up hitting marker
posts and had to sleep a few times. Looking back with a bit more knowledge I
probably had trashed blood sugar levels and was a bit hypothermic.“ –
Merv English.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI4