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Moraine Creek to the Korako Glacier and Te Puoho Glacier

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Located on

  • P1

From the saddle at the top of the moraine wall above Hut Flat take the crest of the curving moraine until it meets the wall below Revelation, sidling left a short way to break through a rock band. Follow a faint track zigzagging upwards to a small col on the ridge. Cross some steepish slabs by either a high or low traverse to a small tussock ledge below the Korako Icefall. An alternative is to climb the South East Ridge directly from the col. On returning across the slabs one tends to lose height and arrive at the ridge below the start of the track down. Climb back up the ridge to where a cairn at the small col marks the way down to Moraine Creek. From the Korako Glacier there are two routes to the Te Puoho Glacier: along the South East Ridge, over the summit and descending the North Ridge of Revelation; or over Crampon Pass, the lowest col near Taiaroa. This involves a rock climb, crux 16, of 50m on the Korako Glacier side and an abseil into the Te Puoho which may be down climbed. In late summer the Te Puoho side can be heavily crevassed.


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