Natural pro requiredHigh on the south edge of the Donne Face of Karetai is a 150m-high free-standing gendarme. One of the few pure cracks in the Darrans and unmatched exposure. To access, gain the low notch on the Te Puoho–Donne ridge just beyond the base of the south ridge of Karetai. A 60m abseil and some scrambling takes you to the ledge at the base of the overhung south face. From the summit it’s a short scramble across a huge chockstone to rejoin the mainland at the top of the initial steep step on the south ridge (it’s a 60m abseil from here down to the névé).
- P1
- 23
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- 55m
- Trad
The crack. Hands to fists to offwidth. Not technically difficult but a full body workout. Crack gloves useful.
- P2
- 21
- 45m
- Trad
Another 10m of crack climbing, and then angle up left across the difficult-to-read slab on spaced protection. Belay at the base of the crack where the wall steepens up again, just right of the arete.
- P3
- 22
- 50m
- Trad
A steep start, then left onto the west face of the gendarme. Save some juice for the final crack, finishing right onto the summit.
