Sword of Damocles

Start up the easy groove toward Labyrinth and continue up a short wall on right, stepping right again to first belay in middle of slab.

Head up and right of the overlaps to next belay.

Step round left onto juggy wall which still has original bolts and hangers. The original route climbed a large hanging flake, the ‘sword’, which was dislodged by an earthquake in the winter of 1988. This section was subsequently climbed with two bolts and graded at 21 by Andy MacFarlane and Dave Brash in 1996. Andy also added a variant third pitch trending right through an overlap to finish up a sharp fin of rock, 20.