Natural pro requiredSmooth slab and crack climbing with good natural pro placements. The route
was re-bolted 2001. The fifth pitch, completed by Murray Judge and Paul
Rogers, follows a wide crack on the left.
- P1
- 21
- 50m
- 5
- Trad
Scramble up 10 metres from base to double bolt ring anchor. Climb up angling left past 2 bolts and on up left to water streak, where you'll find some gear. Continue up and right past 2 bolts (small cam useful) then angle back left to a 5th bolt then a couple of steep moves to pull flake feature (big cam useful). DBA in corner above flake.
- P2
- 18
- 30m
- Trad
Head up and right from belay on good edges. Turn roof feature on right and head up the left angling groove. From the top of groove go straight up and slightly left for about 10 metres and find a DBA on ledge.
- P3
- 20
- Trad
Up the wall above belay trending slightly right then into V-groove above with old rusted rawl bolt anchor in it. Clip this anchor for protection (unfortunately). Find some good small-medium gear in the crack above and pull a few stiff moves to exit the corner. Then straight up on easier ground to a DBA.
- P4
- 18
- Trad
Straight up from belay to the right-trending undercling layback, turn this then head up angling right to DBA. This anchor is positioned to continue on to Chilli Con Kea, the two-pitch slab route up to the right.
- P5
- 16
- Trad
To climb the standard finish you must reverse 10 metres of the previous pitch, find the old rusted anchor on a ledge back out left, clip this, keep traversing left a few metres, then head straight up to the wide crack/flake.
- P6
- 16
- Trad
From the top of the wide flake crack find your way to the top using trad anchors It's another two pitches of mostly easy climbing.
- P7
- 15
- Trad
Mostly easy trad climbing to top.