Natural pro requiredThe groove/chimney leading up to below the roof in the middle of the North Face of Barrier Knob. [The route listed as 11 on p. 140 of the 2006 guidebook, it is probably between 9 and 10 in the photo on p. 138, heading up towards the big roofs.]
- P1
- 17
- Mixed M3
- Trad
Up rib onto easy ground then trending left across steep slab, across to flake crack and thin layback move then round corner into shallow groove (c. 16-17). 2 pegs for aid (thin to free) to foot of wet groove.
- P2
- 16
- Mixed M2
Up the groove, moving out left at the top with a peg for aid. Up easy ground and around left.
- P3
- 15
Left and then up flake crack on jams and side-pulls. Up easy ground to foot of overhangs.
- P4
- 16
- Mixed M4
Left and up groove, over loose blocks then aiding on nuts out left (A2) to an alcove under an overhang with an unstable moss caterpillar and a 6-inch crack with a bolt (one of the first in the Darrans?) Descent by 4 abseils on first ascent.
One 1/4" bolt at the high point.