First ascent of the col, Dot Green, Jean McAuley, C Ramsey, Kurt Suter, 1937.
POINT (168.033722 -44.754381)
CB09 069 323
There are two routes to the Col:
- From the head of the Gertrude Valley follow tussock slopes 200m right of the central gully of the Barrier face working through initial bluffs (crux). A line of least resistance follows ledges and slabs up and right, breaking further right when things get steep near the top. From there it is an easy scramble right towards the col.
Warning: many explosion marks from rockfall on the approach slabs!
- Follow the north side of the waterfall which descends from Crosscut below and to the right of the Col. The waterfall route is much safer and gives a moderately difficult packing route.
The Upper Marian Valley is reached by traversing onto the Crosscut snowfield and descending the second of two quartz bands diagonally right into the valley. If the snowfield is broken an alternative is to descend the Marian Valley side of the col then follow a steepish ramp system down and right for 150m until bluffs are reached. From the top of the bluffs, traverse round to the right (eastwards), dropping to the valley floor where possible.
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