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Another day in Paradise

Grade
21
Length
80m
9
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Vlado Šuraba, Veronika Vlčeková, February 2024
Located on

Another day in Paradise (21) is a new multipich route at Sickle Crack Crag with 20-30 minutes approach from the Black Lake.
Fully bolted with double anchors. Rings only at 2nd and 3th anchor (the same anchor as the last anchor of Ikaka).
Gear - 70m single rope or 2x60m half ropes, 10 quickdraws.
Sun - 8am - 4pm in February.
Recommended season - mid December - April.
Abseil: possible with 70m single rope from the top (3th) anchor to 2nd anchor (Rock Wren pool), from 2nd anchor to 1st anchor of Ikaka and down, or if you have 2x60m half ropes - from top anchor to 2nd anchor and down to the base of the route or abseil using Ikaka abseils.
Enjoy!


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 5

As you see 1st bolt, start from the right site, follow nice holds and couple of bolts until hard slabby move, clip the bolt and climb straight up. Alternative move is : clip bolt, traverse 1,5m right and climb up (16).


  • P2
  • 21
  • 35m
  • 9

From the ledge climb left then right passing 2 bolts (vegetated and dirty start), but as you go higher it gets better until the crux move. (try to find a razor blade hold) and pull hard. The other half of the pitch is a nice climbing via hidden pockets to the ledge (Rock Wren pool)


  • P3
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 6

From Rock Wren pool move left stepping on nice potholes, clip first bolt and move right. Some slabby moves followed by small corner and easy climbing to the top. The last anchor is shared with Ikaka top anchor


Comments
UUID
 
50742682-a53c-4b15-a327-9d09c66b6703