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Sickle Crack Crag

Type
Altitude
1200m

History dates vague attempts at this crag as far back as 1977 by Roland Logan and Galen Rowell.

Image
Image
Image
Aspect
North
Access

Located 150m above and left of the Bog Farmer slabs, the rock is well featured and vegetation sparse. The most obvious feature is a sickle-shaped crack in the centre of the face.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1The Pro-man, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

2 2The Hyper Set-up, 22 22 0m
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Three pitches. 14, 22, 20.


3 3Sickle Crack, 17 17 0m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

The Sickle Crack is a little mossy, but well worth the journey.


4 4Searching for Klingons, 20 20 0m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Two pitches. 19, 20.


 Ikaka, 20 20 80m 9
3

Ikaka (20) is a new multipich route following slabs, vertical wall and corner of Sickle Crack Crag with 20-30 minutes approach from the Black Lake.
Fully bolted with double anchors. Rings only at 1st, 2nd and 4th anchor.
Gear - 70m single rope or 2x60m half ropes, 10 quickdraws.
Sun - 8am - 4pm in February.
Recommended season - mid December - April.
Abseil: possible with 70m single rope from the top (4th) anchor to 2nd anchor, 2nd to 1st and down, or if you have 2x60m half ropes - from top anchor to 2nd anchor and down to the base of the route.
Enjoy!


  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 5

Nice slabby pitch


  • P2
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 9

Amazing pitch on vertical wall with hidden pockets with a punchy move or two at the end


  • P3
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 5

Cruxy Houdini corner. Stretch your hips! After corner climb the slab, cross the small stream (don´t slip) and the anchor is on the right. (no rings, only hangers). Skip this anchor when rappeling from the top and use the anchor of Houdini corner pitch.


  • P4
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 5

Clip the first bolt and do an "Elvis leg" move (you won´t believe it´s only "17"), rest is a nice slab with interesting end :)


 Another day in Paradise, 21 21 80m 9
2.01

Another day in Paradise (21) is a new multipich route at Sickle Crack Crag with 20-30 minutes approach from the Black Lake.
Fully bolted with double anchors. Rings only at 2nd and 3th anchor (the same anchor as the last anchor of Ikaka).
Gear - 70m single rope or 2x60m half ropes, 10 quickdraws.
Sun - 8am - 4pm in February.
Recommended season - mid December - April.
Abseil: possible with 70m single rope from the top (3th) anchor to 2nd anchor (Rock Wren pool), from 2nd anchor to 1st anchor of Ikaka and down, or if you have 2x60m half ropes - from top anchor to 2nd anchor and down to the base of the route or abseil using Ikaka abseils.
Enjoy!


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 5

As you see 1st bolt, start from the right site, follow nice holds and couple of bolts until hard slabby move, clip the bolt and climb straight up. Alternative move is : clip bolt, traverse 1,5m right and climb up (16).


  • P2
  • 21
  • 35m
  • 9

From the ledge climb left then right passing 2 bolts (vegetated and dirty start), but as you go higher it gets better until the crux move. (try to find a razor blade hold) and pull hard. The other half of the pitch is a nice climbing via hidden pockets to the ledge (Rock Wren pool)


  • P3
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 6

From Rock Wren pool move left stepping on nice potholes, clip first bolt and move right. Some slabby moves followed by small corner and easy climbing to the top. The last anchor is shared with Ikaka top anchor


5 5Lost in Space, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
85927900-8e95-40ae-a63e-06f59cb850e7