First crossed by Jim & George Dennistoun, Sydney King, Jock Richmond, Jan 1914.
This popular route links the Havelock and Godley Valleys but is a little convoluted. To reach the
pass, follow St Winifred Stream onto the glacier and to about the 1600-metre contour, directly under
the icefall. The icefall is usually difficult to pass, so head south-east up moraine and bedrock to snow
basins, reaching the dividing ridge between St Winifreds Stream and the Forbes River at the very
broad low saddle between Pt 2100 metres and Pyramus Peak. Walk north-west over a shoulder down
to a crevassed snowfield, traversing under a rock buttress east of the pass before heading up to the pass
itself. From the pass, snow slopes normally lead down to the Godley Glacier. If crevasses block the
descent, traverse rock ledges on the lower slopes of Pyramus or climb directly over the summit. Near
the Godley Glacier under Pyramus, receding ice has exposed rock slabs, making this descent tricky.
Lower down, it is not recommended to reach Godley Hut by sidling around the lake. The true
left is impractical, with areas of steep, loose moraine and frequent rock fall. The true right may be
practical near lake level if the Ruth Glacier can be crossed, but at the other end of the lake the Godley
River outlet may be hard to cross. The normal and best route past the lake is to climb up the true left
bank and traverse this – there is a shelf at the 1600–1700 metre contour providing easy travel. Various
routes lead up to the shelf, including one from Trident Stream that passes a marked tarn at 1850 metres.
Watch for stone fall climbing up. The ridge at the end of the shelf leads easily down to the hut.
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint,
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club