Place info

Spur Road

(92 routes)

Spur Road is a south-facing basalt crag. It has many good natural gear lines between 10 and 15m high with reasonable protection.

Sometimes the top of the routes can be a little dirty after rain and some of the blocky rock should handled carefully.
There are also many semi-suspect branches in the pine trees at the top of the crag. We recommend you always wear a helmet at Spur Road (even at the top of the crag) and definitely stay away during high winds.
Be very wary of using any old carrot or expansion bolts, the basalt here is quite soft. The newer glue-in bolts are good to go.
The routes often have painted letters to identify them. The abbreviations are included with the route name in the guide.

Routes Are Left to Right, different to "as you approach" which is from the right. Note any climbs left of 'Lion of Judah' have probably not been climbed for years and most are in need of a good clean up. Most climbs from Lion of Judah and right are relatively clean.

  • South East

    Aspect

  • 10min

    Walk in

  • 120m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South East
Altitude: 
120m

Spur Road is a south-facing basalt crag. It has many good natural gear lines between 10 and 15m high with reasonable protection.

Sometimes the top of the routes can be a little dirty after rain and some of the blocky rock should handled carefully.
There are also many semi-suspect branches in the pine trees at the top of the crag. We recommend you always wear a helmet at Spur Road (even at the top of the crag) and definitely stay away during high winds.
Be very wary of using any old carrot or expansion bolts, the basalt here is quite soft. The newer glue-in bolts are good to go.
The routes often have painted letters to identify them. The abbreviations are included with the route name in the guide.

Routes Are Left to Right, different to "as you approach" which is from the right. Note any climbs left of 'Lion of Judah' have probably not been climbed for years and most are in need of a good clean up. Most climbs from Lion of Judah and right are relatively clean.

Access: 

Lester Marshall owns the top of the crag (the trees) while the cliff itself and the bottom of the crag is owned by Robert Rhodes. There is no need to contact either for permission to climb but please show respect; access is a privilege. Steer clear at lambing time, leave the dog at home, leave any gates as found, and respect all farm property. This will ensure access continues.
North of Timaru, turn inland onto Washdyke Flat Rd (just before the State Highway 8 turn off to Mt Cook). This road leads to an intersection with Spur Rd. Follow Spur Rd for 4km to a sweeping corner, 100m before the turnoff to Kings Rd. Park by the deer fence.
Over the fence is a track which leads through trees. Turn slightly right and follow the deer fence line in South-west direction, keeping the deer fence to your right for a few minutes to the pine trees. This takes you to the top of the crag. Go leftwards or east to find your way to the base of the cliff. The right-most routes are about 30m from the track exit at the base of the crag.

Walk time: 
10min
NZMS260: 
J39629481
Topo50: 
BZ19 527 866
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
SA
12
0
Natural gear required
  The corner with two large cracks.

Ian Binnie, 1986

FL
10
0
Natural gear required
  Crack up LH side of roof.

Ian Binnie, 1986

FE
10
0
Natural gear required
  The crack up RHS of roof.

Jeff Smale, 1987

SO
18
0
Natural gear required
  Short arête.

Russell Shanks

DJ
13
0
Natural gear required
  Crank up centre of buttress.

Mark Mason, 1985

YB
18
0
Natural gear required
  Face route with large jug at top, finishing on DJ.
MM
17
0
Natural gear required
  Hand crack to roof, then move L, then up corner.
12
0
Natural gear required
  Up short face, then finishing up your choice of two cracks.
13
0
Natural gear required
  Climb to hanging garden, finishing through mud.
ED
18
0
Natural gear required
  Start on ledge, and follow short corner.

John Fraser, 1986

AS
16
0
Natural gear required
  Jamcrack to L of FoI.

John Fraser, 1986

FoI
24
1.02
Natural gear required
  2m R of M. Climb through roof, reaching to the ledge. Mantle ledge, then up steep groove.

Russelll Shanks, 1987

M
18
0
Natural gear required
  Through bulge, finnishing in hand-crack.

Russell Shanks, 1986

BD
17
0
Natural gear required
  Steep, short corner.

Russell Shanks, 1986

16
0
Natural gear required
  2m L of P. Wide crack.
P
20
1.02
Natural gear required
  Through roof and climb wall and groove above.

Russell Shanks, 1986

WC
12
0
Natural gear required
  2m R of P. Crack.
ST
15
0
Natural gear required
  Follow groove to ledge. Easy exit.

John Fraser, 1987

JD
12
0
Natural gear required
  Dirty corner with fist-crack in it.

John Fraser, 1986

RRR
17
0
Natural gear required
  L of TiT. Large crack.
TiT
21
1.02
Natural gear required
  The nose-like arête. Reach out onto the tip of the arête, carry out the crux, the up the easy ground.

Ian Binnie, 1987

21
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  2m of BA. Move L onto arête, then climb the crest.

Luke Newnhan, 1985

BA
20
1.02
Natural gear required
  The flared finger crack. Short.

Matt Warwick, 1985

CB
16
0
Natural gear required
  Ciimb crack to mantle (crux) ay top.
AAK
14
0
Natural gear required
  1m L of C. Slab/face route

Jeff Smale, 1987

C
16
0
Natural gear required
  A steep off-width crack.

A Crosbie, 1985

20
1.02
Natural gear required
  Climb th wall, avoid the bulge on the LHS. Exit up finger crack.

Luke Newnhan

PK
20
1.02
Natural gear required
  Climb onto ledge, then up through overhung jam-crack.

Russell Shanks, 1984

DR
19
0
Natural gear required
  Climb upwide crack, then jam through bulge.

Russell Shanks, 1985

TH
21
1.02
Natural gear required
  Climb up face and bulge, with finger crack above. The route ends on the ledge.

Russell Shanks, 1985

MM
16
0
Natural gear required
  Start up the slab, then move into the short corner, exit out on the clay (crux).

K Dukie, 1985

17
0
Natural gear required
  Mantle & bridge up the short corner.
RG
15
0
Natural gear required
  Up the corner and mantle. Carry out L-wards traverse across ledge the diagonally up the dirty ledges.
21
0
Natural gear required
  Climb to the large scoop, move over bulge and finish on the above face.

Ian McLaren, 1987

DTE
23
0
Natural gear required
  The steep flared groove, exiting on above face.

Russell Shanks, 1987

SR
16
0
Natural gear required
  Jam up corner.

Russell Shanks, 1987

13
0
Natural gear required
  2m L of CT. Indistinct line that trends R.

Pete Axford, 1985

15
0
Natural gear required
  Corner with easy angle, passing large block on R.

Charlie Hobbs, 1985

18
0
Natural gear required
  Climb through short roof, the move up to exit on arête.
GN
21
1.02
13m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb short face with 1B, mantle onto ledge exiting via steep jamming.

Russel Shanks, 1985

LA
18
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  Climb finger crack, move R then climb hand-crack.

Murray Judge, 1985

20
0
Natural gear required
  Trough small roof.

Murray Judge

17
0
Natural gear required
  A sustained route up a chossy groove.

Lindsay Main, 1985

TOD
18
0
13m
Natural gear required
  A hand/finger crack, then onto the crux mantle to top-out.

Lindsay Main

GB
18
0
13m
Natural gear required
  Up the corner to the jugs under the lip, move L then exit upwards.

Russell Shanks, 1985

LJ
16
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  Obvious corner.

Pete Axford, 1984

T
15
0
13m
Natural gear required
  Climb ramp up and R to link with prominent crack. Direct variant 17.

Charlie Hobbs, 1984

R
14
0
Natural gear required
Gone
  Climb face to ledge, move L and up fist-crack.

Russell Shanks, 1984

GF
15
0
Natural gear required
Gone
  Sustained corner.

Charlie Hobbs, 1983

14
0
Natural gear required
Gone
 

Pete Axford, 1983

FNF
17
0
13m
Natural gear required
Gone
  The large crack on RHS of the arête. Start direct or from CR.

Andrew MacFarlane, 1986

CR
17
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  Use small cracks to gain ledge (crux), then up big L facing corner. Difficult to protect the crux.

Andrew McFarlane, 1984

CRD
19
0
Natural gear required
  Direct start to CR.
TD
18
2.01
Natural gear required
  Up crack/corner to vague rest under roof. After arranging your gear and headspace, launch out over the roof to hand jams and freedom. Finish up off-width. Something for everyone.

Pete Axford, 1984

B
16
0
Natural gear required
  Move past green bulge on L, then up flake and corner.

Charlie Hobbs, 1983

CC
13
0
Natural gear required
  Crank up through large blocks and jams.

Andrew McFarlane, 1984

WT
22
0
Natural gear required
1
  The steep RH facing corner and slab, with hand-crack exit.

Rick McGregor, 1985

SS
17
2.01
14m
Natural gear required
1
  After a slightly overhanging start, kicks back into a beautiful and delicate (for feet and pro) hand crack. Quality line, great for working on your footwork.

Russell Shanks, 1984

A
14
0
Natural gear required
  A loose groove line.

Russell Shanks, 1984

SR
15
0
14m
Natural gear required
  A long corner. Loose at the top

Russell Shanks, 1984

T2OU
16
1.02
14m
Natural gear required
  Start in the clean hand crack. The crux is the obvious big move to get up and into the R facing corner.

Charlie Hobbs, 1984

V
13
0
14m
Natural gear required
  Climb R past 5 sidded block, exiting above L.

A Crosbie, 1984

ML
15
0
Natural gear required
  Climb the crack through face, L around the green block, into V and back R finishing in chossy gully.

Charlie Hobbs, 1984

NB
18
2.01
14m
Natural gear required
  Climb up blocks that lead through to an ever steepening hand/finger crack.

Russell Shanks, 1985

RTM
18
1.02
14m
Natural gear required
  Squeeze chimney!

Andrew McFarlane, 1985

24
0
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Right of RTM. Start up trough blocky ground and climb past 3 more bolts up the face, cleaning the route before an ascent may help traction.
E
17
2.01
14m
Natural gear required
  Steep start on jugs (no pro) leads to a slab/face. Then launch into the fantastic hand crack which eventually widens to an off-width finish. Take off a grade if you know how to jam!

Russell Shanks, 1984

22
2.01
14m
Natural gear required
  Climb through bulge and into the finger crack in small L facing corner. Once you have dealt to the first crux, move over to RHS of the arête, finishing on the deceptively steep face (minimal gear on this face).

Murray Judge, 1985

13
0
13m
Natural gear required
  Ascend the loose looking rock to the corner wih large crack.
14
0
Natural gear required
  The alternative RH start to PB
AA
15
0
12m
Natural gear required
  The arête that is climbed mainly on the RHS.

Andrew McFarlane, 1985

B
12
0
11m
Natural gear required
 
Climb through loose blocks, the ascend the off-width crack

Andrew McFarlane, 1985

11
0
10m
Natural gear required
 
The double crack corner.
17
0
10m
Natural gear required
 
Climb the crack through the face, bridging is useful.
M
13
0
10m
Natural gear required
  The broken crack line.

Mark Mason, 1986

HTR
17
0
10m
Natural gear required
  Up the broken crack, then through the small roof.

Andrew McFarlane, 1984

MB
14
0
10m
Natural gear required
  Up through short roof exiting via hand-crack.

Lindsay Main, 1985

H
10
0
10m
Natural gear required
  Easy corner.

Charlie Hobbs, 1984

Z
17
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  The Z-cracked face.

Murray Judge, 1985

WW
14
0
13m
Natural gear required
  The winding hand-crack.

Charlie Hobbs, 1983

HOF
15
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  Up lichenous wall passing the to the L of the buge. Exiting on a jam-crack.

Russell Shanks, 1984

18
0
Natural gear required
  Climb arête to roof, pull over the large jug, and the up the above face installing pro in HoF.

Luke Newnham, 1985

PV
20
2.01
13m
Natural gear required
  Tenuous finger jams and delicate feet lead to a good rest. Then upwards into the bulging crack using a mixture of hand/fist jams and big moves. Quality moves on a quality line.

Luke Newnham, 1985

0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  To the right of PV. Climb past three bolts and finish above with trad runners.
18
0
Natural gear required
  The bouldery start moves onto the contrived ascent of the bulge and the above arête.
1SA
15
1.02
13m
Natural gear required
  Use jam-crack, then LH facing corner above

Pete Axford 1983

RH
14
0
12m
Natural gear required
  Follow ledges that lead to a corner with a hand-crack

Charlie Hobbs, 1983

KT
13
0
Natural gear required
  Move R-wards past large loose block, exiting on easy ground.

Russel Shanks, 1985

ML
16
0
Natural gear required
  A small face finishing in a RH facing crack.

Ian McLaren

LB
10
0
Natural gear required
  The corner L of IfW.

John Fraser, 1986

IFW
8
0
Natural gear required
  An easy angled corner.

Russel Shanks, 1984

W
11
0
Natural gear required
  A short loose wall, near the approach.
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South
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