

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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SA | Shags's Apprentice | 12 |
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The corner with two large cracks.
Ian Binnie, 1986
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FL | Footloose | 10 |
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Crack up LH side of roof.
Ian Binnie, 1986
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FE | Fraser Eraser | 10 |
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The crack up RHS of roof.
Jeff Smale, 1987
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SO | Soft Option | 18 |
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Short arête.
Russell Shanks
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DJ | Dragons Jaws | 13 |
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Crank up centre of buttress.
Mark Mason, 1985
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YB | Young Blood | 18 |
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Face route with large jug at top, finishing on DJ.
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MM | Macho Man | 17 |
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Hand crack to roof, then move L, then up corner.
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Slippery When Wet | 12 |
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Up short face, then finishing up your choice of two cracks.
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Garden of Eden | 13 |
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Climb to hanging garden, finishing through mud.
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ED | Echos in the Dark | 18 |
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Start on ledge, and follow short corner.
John Fraser, 1986
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AS | Airway Spies | 16 |
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Jamcrack to L of FoI.
John Fraser, 1986
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FoI | Flight of Icarus | 24 |
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2m R of M. Climb through roof, reaching to the ledge. Mantle ledge, then up steep groove.
Russelll Shanks, 1987
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M | Medusa | 18 |
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Through bulge, finnishing in hand-crack.
Russell Shanks, 1986
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BD | Brain Damage | 17 |
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Steep, short corner.
Russell Shanks, 1986
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Diamond Dogs | 16 |
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2m L of P. Wide crack.
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P | Purgatory | 20 |
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Through roof and climb wall and groove above.
Russell Shanks, 1986
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WC | Whose Climb | 12 |
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2m R of P. Crack.
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ST | Smale Trails | 15 |
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Follow groove to ledge. Easy exit.
John Fraser, 1987
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JD | Juvenile Decay | 12 |
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Dirty corner with fist-crack in it.
John Fraser, 1986
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RRR | Revenge of the Rectum Ranger | 17 |
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L of TiT. Large crack.
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TiT | Terrestial in Torment | 21 |
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The nose-like arête. Reach out onto the tip of the arête, carry out the crux, the up the easy ground.
Ian Binnie, 1987
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Sultans of Swing | 21 |
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2m of BA. Move L onto arête, then climb the crest.
Luke Newnhan, 1985
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BA | Black Arts | 20 |
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The flared finger crack. Short.
Matt Warwick, 1985
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CB | C Bix | 16 |
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Ciimb crack to mantle (crux) ay top.
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AAK | Alive & Kicking | 14 |
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1m L of C. Slab/face route
Jeff Smale, 1987
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C | The Chills | 16 |
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A steep off-width crack.
A Crosbie, 1985
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Flesh for Fantasy | 20 |
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Climb th wall, avoid the bulge on the LHS. Exit up finger crack.
Luke Newnhan
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PK | Psycho Killer | 20 |
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Climb onto ledge, then up through overhung jam-crack.
Russell Shanks, 1984
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DR | Death Row | 19 |
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Climb upwide crack, then jam through bulge.
Russell Shanks, 1985
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TH | Temporary Heroes | 21 |
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Climb up face and bulge, with finger crack above. The route ends on the ledge.
Russell Shanks, 1985
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MM | Magic Mushroom | 16 |
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Start up the slab, then move into the short corner, exit out on the clay (crux).
K Dukie, 1985
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Ashes to Ashes | 17 |
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Mantle & bridge up the short corner.
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RG | Rubber Gumboot | 15 |
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Up the corner and mantle. Carry out L-wards traverse across ledge the diagonally up the dirty ledges.
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Nightmare on Elm Street | 21 |
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Climb to the large scoop, move over bulge and finish on the above face.
Ian McLaren, 1987
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DTE | Delete the Elite | 23 |
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The steep flared groove, exiting on above face.
Russell Shanks, 1987
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SR | Sorry Rob | 16 |
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Jam up corner.
Russell Shanks, 1987
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Moon Rocks | 13 |
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2m L of CT. Indistinct line that trends R.
Pete Axford, 1985
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Come Together | 15 |
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Corner with easy angle, passing large block on R.
Charlie Hobbs, 1985
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Solid Rock | 18 |
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Climb through short roof, the move up to exit on arête.
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GN | Gnome’s Nightmare | 21 | 13m |
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Climb short face with 1B, mantle onto ledge exiting via steep jamming.
Russel Shanks, 1985
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LA | Living After | 18 | 13m |
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Climb finger crack, move R then climb hand-crack.
Murray Judge, 1985
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Manhole | 20 |
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Trough small roof.
Murray Judge
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Mince Gully | 17 |
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A sustained route up a chossy groove.
Lindsay Main, 1985
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TOD | Top or Drop | 18 | 13m |
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A hand/finger crack, then onto the crux mantle to top-out.
Lindsay Main
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GB | Ghostbuster | 18 | 13m |
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Up the corner to the jugs under the lip, move L then exit upwards.
Russell Shanks, 1985
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LJ | Lion of Judah | 16 | 13m |
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Obvious corner.
Pete Axford, 1984
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T | Teardrops | 15 | 13m |
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Climb ramp up and R to link with prominent crack.
Direct variant 17.
Charlie Hobbs, 1984
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R | Revolution | 14 |
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Climb face to ledge, move L and up fist-crack.
Russell Shanks, 1984
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GF | Green Fingers | 15 |
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Sustained corner.
Charlie Hobbs, 1983
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Yum Yum | 14 |
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Pete Axford, 1983
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FNF | Fame Not Fortune | 17 | 13m |
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The large crack on RHS of the arête.
Start direct or from CR.
Andrew MacFarlane, 1986
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CR | Cavalry Road | 17 | 13m |
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Use small cracks to gain ledge (crux), then up big L facing corner. Difficult to protect the crux.
Andrew McFarlane, 1984
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CRD | Cavalry Road Direct | 19 |
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Direct start to CR.
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TD | Two Drops | 18 |
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Up crack/corner to vague rest under roof. After arranging your gear and headspace, launch out over the roof to hand jams and freedom. Finish up off-width. Something for everyone.
Pete Axford, 1984
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B | Babyskins | 16 |
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Move past green bulge on L, then up flake and corner.
Charlie Hobbs, 1983
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CC | Confidence Crisis | 13 |
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Crank up through large blocks and jams.
Andrew McFarlane, 1984
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WT | Wandering Jew | 22 |
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The steep RH facing corner and slab, with hand-crack exit.
Rick McGregor, 1985
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SS | Shanks Sandbag | 17 | 14m |
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After a slightly overhanging start, kicks back into a beautiful and delicate (for feet and pro) hand crack. Quality line, great for working on your footwork.
Russell Shanks, 1984
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A | Asylum | 14 |
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A loose groove line.
Russell Shanks, 1984
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SR | Stoneage Romeo | 15 | 14m |
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A long corner. Loose at the top
Russell Shanks, 1984
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T2OU | The Two of Us | 16 | 14m |
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Start in the clean hand crack. The crux is the obvious big move to get up and into the R facing corner.
Charlie Hobbs, 1984
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V | Victory | 13 | 14m |
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Climb R past 5 sidded block, exiting above L.
A Crosbie, 1984
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ML | Mot Lot | 15 |
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Climb the crack through face, L around the green block, into V and back R finishing in chossy gully.
Charlie Hobbs, 1984
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NB | Number of the Beast | 18 | 14m |
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Climb up blocks that lead through to an ever steepening hand/finger crack.
Russell Shanks, 1985
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Unnamed | 24 |
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Right of RTM. Start up trough blocky ground and climb past 3 more bolts up the face, cleaning the route before an ascent may help traction.
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RTM | Room to Move | 18 | 14m |
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Squeeze chimney!
Andrew McFarlane, 1985
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Pickpocket | 23 | 14m |
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Between RTM and E. Scramble up well protected blocky terrain before confronting the final face using a combination of edges, pockets and the obvious ramp.
Daniel Pain, 2019. (?)
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E | Eliminator | 17 | 14m |
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Steep start on jugs (no pro) leads to a slab/face. Then launch into the fantastic hand crack which eventually widens to an off-width finish. Take off a grade if you know how to jam!
Russell Shanks, 1984
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Staying Power | 22 | 14m |
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Climb through bulge and into the finger crack in small L facing corner. Once you have dealt to the first crux, move over to RHS of the arête, finishing on the deceptively steep face (minimal gear on this face).
Murray Judge, 1985
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Pin Ball | 13 | 13m |
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Ascend the loose looking rock to the corner wih large crack.
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Pin Ball-Rh Start | 14 |
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The alternative RH start to PB
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AA | Andy’s Arête | 15 | 12m |
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The arête that is climbed mainly on the RHS.
Andrew McFarlane, 1985
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B | Bush | 12 | 11m |
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Climb through loose blocks, the ascend the off-width crack
Andrew McFarlane, 1985
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What Goes Up | 11 | 10m |
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The double crack corner.
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Eternal Legs | 17 | 10m |
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Climb the crack through the face, bridging is useful.
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M | Metamorphosis | 13 | 10m |
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The broken crack line.
Mark Mason, 1986
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HTR | Hot Tin Roof | 17 | 10m |
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Up the broken crack, then through the small roof.
Andrew McFarlane, 1984
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MB | Magician’s Birthday | 14 | 10m |
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Up through short roof exiting via hand-crack.
Lindsay Main, 1985
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H | Honbun | 10 | 10m |
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Easy corner.
Charlie Hobbs, 1984
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Z | Zorro | 17 | 13m |
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The Z-cracked face.
Murray Judge, 1985
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WW | Wee Wettle | 14 | 13m |
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The winding hand-crack.
Charlie Hobbs, 1983
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HOF | House on Fire | 15 | 13m |
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Up lichenous wall passing the to the L of the buge. Exiting on a jam-crack.
Russell Shanks, 1984
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Toxic Shock | 18 |
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Climb arête to roof, pull over the large jug, and the up the above face installing pro in HoF.
Luke Newnham, 1985
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PV | Pleasure Victim | 20 | 13m |
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Tenuous finger jams and delicate feet lead to a good rest. Then upwards into the bulging crack using a mixture of hand/fist jams and big moves. Quality moves on a quality line.
Luke Newnham, 1985
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Unnamed | 18 |
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To the right of PV. Climb past three bolts and finish above with trad runners.
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Space Oddity | 18 |
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To the right of PV. The bouldery start moves past 3 bolts, and onto the contrived ascent of the bulge and the above arête.
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1SA | One Sunday Afternoon | 15 | 13m |
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Use jam-crack, then LH facing corner above
Pete Axford 1983
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RH | Rabbit Hole | 14 | 12m |
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Follow ledges that lead to a corner with a hand-crack
Charlie Hobbs, 1983
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KT | Knights Title | 13 |
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Move R-wards past large loose block, exiting on easy ground.
Russel Shanks, 1985
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ML | The Meaning of Life | 16 |
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A small face finishing in a RH facing crack.
Ian McLaren
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LB | Lead or Bleed | 10 |
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The corner L of IfW.
John Fraser, 1986
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IFW | Ideas for Walls | 8 |
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An easy angled corner.
Russel Shanks, 1984
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W | Wailing Wall | 11 |
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A short loose wall, near the approach.
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Comments
Easy enough to identify the
Easy enough to identify the routes in real life, between the red painted initials at the bottom of some routes and route descriptions of others.
A lot of routes are quite dirty and could use a brush but quality lines with lots of good gear options (especially nuts).
Grading is quite variable ie a 10 and adjacent 17 felt the same difficulty ~14/15...but then a 17 around the corner felt ~20.
A number of routes actually have double staple/ring anchors but we found it good to take an extra rope and set up extended anchors from the trees at the top which serviced a few routes each. Worth a visit!