Momentary Lapse of Reason Wall

(11 routes)

This massive buttress is undercut at the base and has some awesome lines. All of the routes start either at the far left or right to access the climbable rock. User beware of the bolts.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
15min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
OML Ole Memory Lane 22 15m
1.02
2bolts
Pock crank past the bolts, and work your way through the thin crux to topout.
Ian Binnie
GM Great Mission 21
0
1bolts
4m r of OML. Climb through seam of pocks and over the bulge.
KoR Knights of the Reich 21 14m
1.02
3bolts
Climb through pocky groove. Oposite OML.
John Fraser 1989
Picnic at Hanging Rock 20 15m
1.02
4bolts
Follow steep section through to slabby top-out.
John Fraser 1990
22 Unnamed 22 24m
1.02
6bolts
Start as for MLOR, and continue striaght up the face.
MLR Momentary Lapse of Reason 22 25m
2.01
8bolts
Traverse R-ward along line of jugs from undercut to the middle of the face. After the 4th bolt go straight up the face.
Ian Binnie 1989
MoM Margins of the Mind 15 ,21 27m
2.01
4bolts wire representing trad
Traverse L-wards through large scoops, from the RHS of the wall. Some gear may be required.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515m2Yes
 Traverse L-wards through large scoops, from the RHS of the wall. Some gear may be required.
22112m2No
  Climb up the arete on sound holds. It used to be popular to climb the crux then jump off for the big lob.
Simon Middlemass 1990
WB We Got Bananas 24 24m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Travers L as for 1st pitch of MotM. Climb up the groove to the R of the 2nd pitch of MotM
Brian Alder 1990
MAE Murder on the American Express 26 20m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Traverse L part wway on MotM, then straight up through the bulge
Dave Fearnley 1990
DD Doctor Doolittle 26 17m
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Traverse L past sharks tooth, and out through rooof onto wall R of MotAE
Jeremy Strang 1991
R of DD Hercolubus 27 20m
2.01
5bolts
Shares start with other routes but heads straight out the roof and then the groove right of DD. Finish up the slab to the highest point of the buttress.
Tom Hoyle 2008.