This massive buttress is undercut at the base and has some awesome lines. All of the routes start either at the far left or right to access the climbable rock. User beware of the bolts.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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OML | OMLOle Memory Lane, 22 | 22 | 15m | 2 | |||
Pock crank past the bolts, and work your way through the thin crux to topout. |
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GM | GMGreat Mission, 21 | 21 | 1 | ||||
4m r of OML. Climb through seam of pocks and over the bulge. |
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KoR | KoRKnights of the Reich, 21 | 21 | 14m | 3 | |||
Climb through pocky groove. Oposite OML. |
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Picnic at Hanging Rock, 20 | 20 | 15m | 4 | ||||
Follow steep section through to slabby top-out. |
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22 | 22Unnamed, 22 | 22 | 24m | 6 | |||
Start as for MLOR, and continue striaght up the face. |
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MLR | MLRMomentary Lapse of Reason, 22 | 22 | 25m | 8 | |||
Traverse R-ward along line of jugs from undercut to the middle of the face. After the 4th bolt go straight up the face. |
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MoM | MoMMargins of the Mind, 21 | 21 | 27m | 2 | |||
Traverse L-wards through large scoops, from the RHS of the wall. Some gear may be required.
Climb up the arete on sound holds. It used to be popular to climb the crux then jump off for the big lob. |
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WB | WBWe Got Bananas, 24 | 24 | 24m | 5 | |||
Travers L as for 1st pitch of MotM. Climb up the groove to the R of the 2nd pitch of MotM |
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MAE | MAEMurder on the American Express, 26 | 26 | 20m | 3 | |||
Traverse L part wway on MotM, then straight up through the bulge |
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DD | DDDoctor Doolittle, 26 | 26 | 17m | 3 | |||
Traverse L past sharks tooth, and out through rooof onto wall R of MotAE |
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R of DD | R of DDHercolubus, 27 | 27 | 20m | 5 | |||
Shares start with other routes but heads straight out the roof and then the groove right of DD. Finish up the slab to the highest point of the buttress. |