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Momentary Lapse of Reason Wall

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 4 December 2024, by ezstewart.

Hanging Rock crag has been closed to climbers since 2018. Updates will be posted below if this changes.

Type
Sector
Part of
Hanging Rock

This massive buttress is undercut at the base and has some awesome lines. All of the routes start either at the far left or right to access the climbable rock. User beware of the bolts.

Walktime
15min
Aspect
North
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
OML OMLOle Memory Lane, 22 22 15m 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 2

Pock crank past the bolts, and work your way through the thin crux to topout.
GM GMGreat Mission, 21 21 1
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 1

4m r of OML. Climb through seam of pocks and over the bulge.
KoR KoRKnights of the Reich, 21 21 14m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 14m
  • 3

Climb through pocky groove. Oposite OML.
 Picnic at Hanging Rock, 20 20 15m 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 4

Follow steep section through to slabby top-out.
22 22Unnamed, 22 22 24m 6
1.02
  • P1
  • 22
  • 24m
  • 6

Start as for MLOR, and continue striaght up the face.
MLR MLRMomentary Lapse of Reason, 22 22 25m 8
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 8

Traverse R-ward along line of jugs from undercut to the middle of the face. After the 4th bolt go straight up the face.
MoM MoMMargins of the Mind, 21 21 27m 2
2.01
  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 2
  • Trad

Traverse L-wards through large scoops, from the RHS of the wall. Some gear may be required.

  • P2
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 2

Climb up the arete on sound holds. It used to be popular to climb the crux then jump off for the big lob.
WB WBWe Got Bananas, 24 24 24m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 24m
  • 5
  • Trad

Travers L as for 1st pitch of MotM. Climb up the groove to the R of the 2nd pitch of MotM
MAE MAEMurder on the American Express, 26 26 20m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 3
  • Trad

Traverse L part wway on MotM, then straight up through the bulge
DD DDDoctor Doolittle, 26 26 17m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 26
  • 17m
  • 3
  • Trad

Traverse L past sharks tooth, and out through rooof onto wall R of MotAE
R of DD R of DDHercolubus, 27 27 20m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 27
  • 20m
  • 5

Shares start with other routes but heads straight out the roof and then the groove right of DD. Finish up the slab to the highest point of the buttress.
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UUID
 
15e84cb7-c01f-45f6-b05d-77ad442533ae