Still closed as of March 2024 but there has been positive communication with the land owner.
For now - please respect that the crag is still closed.
NOTICE CRAG CLOSED: Access to the farm and thereby the climbing at Hanging Rock is currently restricted as part of biosecurity precautions around the outbreak of M. Bovis in New Zealand. Please respect the wishes of the property owner and do not access the crags until the disease has been contained and farm access is restored. Further notices will be placed here if more information is available.
WARNING 8 September 2016 (copied from post on Christchurch Climbing Facebook page): Notice for climbers about Hanging Rock, South Canterbury.
There has been a significant outcrop collapse at the east end of the outcrop row on Gould's property at Hanging Rock. Advice from geologists is that the rock fall has not yet finished, and may have rendered other nearby outcrops dangerous as well. The climbing areas known as 'East End' and 'Jungleland' are now very unsafe for climbing, or accessing at all - including walking below or above the outcrops in the area.
PLEASE DO NOT ENTER THIS AREA AS IT IS VERY UNSAFE.
Hanging Rock is a limestone crag on farmland overlooking the Opihi River. The rock is pocketed and more featured than Castle Hill, this is a great place to apply similar moves to sporty routes.
Climbing Notes.
The bolting varies. The best bolts are 12mm stainless carrot bolts with hangers, or 12mm glue-in bolts. These are more trustworthy than the 10mm galvanised carrot bolts, which are usually hangerless.
Most of the anchors are equipped with chain, but occasionally there is only one bolt to lower off. Use your own judgement on this. A single sport rope is generally fine, and you will need to take a handful of wires for threading the naked bolts.
The usual Castle Hill bouldering kit comes in handy at this crag and some of the climbs are much easier if they are spruced up. Take a couple of plastic brushes; one big one for dusting off the slabs, and a tooth brush for fine-tuning the small, feisty holds.
ACCESS ACROSS FARM IS CURRENTLY CLOSED. The farmers, Mr and Mrs Gould??, are fine with climbers using the area, as long as climbers behave themselves! Please make sure that you close the gates, sign the logbook and respect their property. The crag is closed for lambing between the end of August and mid-October.
If parking up the hill past the farm house please park on the righthand side of the fence facing up hill and clear of the farm gates. Do not park on the lefthand side!! and not across gates! ( to enable trucks and machinery to manouvre.) At Farmers request as of 25/4/12].
Please also keep the driving sensible, on the farm, if it is too muddy do not drive up the hill.
PLEASE LEAVE THE DOG AT HOME!!
The easiest way to get to the crag, is to go to Pleasant Point, turning off highway 1 at Temuka or Timaru. From the main road through Pleasant Point, turn right into Tengawai Rd (also sign posted as a turn off to Hanging Rock Bridge). After a few kilometres, via right into Opihi Rd. After about 5mins, turn left in to Gays Pass Rd and right in to Goulds Rd. This gravel road stops at the farmhouse. Park clear of the entrance to the farm.
Follow the grassy lane to a wooden stand by the barn. This houses the logbook, which should be filled out before you climb. Walk past the barn and through a heavy gate. Continue along the fenceline to a track on the left and follow this downhill. You will end up at the base of the crag with the White Wall on your right and the Black Wall on your left.
Some behaviour problems are surfacing! Mainly to do with vehicles and dogs!
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