The Goat Cave

(15 routes)

A cave near the far (north) end of the crag.

The first nine routes on this wall have been erased because the Christchurch Adventure Park chairlift passes directly overhead, and the CAP operating procedures do not allow climbing below it because of the risk of an object (ie mountain bike) falling from the lift.

All hangers and anchors have been removed in this area, except for a couple of rusty hangers on the lower part of a route which cannot be easily accessed.

Do not climb in this area, and do not attempt to re-establish these routes, or set new routes, as this may lead to the ongoing closure of the crag for climbing.

Altitude: 
300m
Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
HD Hotdog 19
0
3bolts 1
Twenty-five metres right is a large cave with several routes. About five metres left of the cave
Marcus Thomas, 2001.
2B Two Bens 15 10m
0
3bolts 1 1
Climb just left of the corner and join the arete. Double bolt anchor.
Ben Gibbins 2012
BD Belly Dancer 16
0
1
Start two metres left of Ballerina make your way up trending slightly leftwards across the slabby wall to an anchor on the lip.
Alisa Woodruff, 2013
Ba Ballerina 19
0
4bolts 1
Twenty-five metres right is Goat Cave. Found just left of the Goat Cave.
Tony Burnell, 2013
Ea Euthanasia 20
0
4bolts 1 3
Climb a steep juggy wall past a bolt to the right and up to a small roof. Pull through onto a slabby section (dirty and poor rock), and climb on to a short arete below the roof. Move right to clip the last bolt, which is totally hidden about a metre below the finish, and pull over for a surprisingly painless exit. Anchor rings. .
Lindsay Main, 2000
MB Marital Bliss 18
1.02
5bolts 1 2
At the left end of the cave. Haul yourself up a line of jugs on an overhanging wall with three bolts, then go slightly right to finish up the arete. Five bolts and anchor bolts without rings. .
Alex Palman, 1999
Sh Sloth 22
1.02
6bolts 1 4
Start as for Slothful but continue directly over the bulging roof, continue up the corner above to a combined anchor with MB.
Tony Burnell, 2013
Sl Slothful 21
2.01
5bolts 1 3
A metre right, follows a right-trending crack at the edge of the cave. Pull up on pockets or brittle holds to a ledge, and move rightward following the crack to jugs on the lip, then easy to the anchors.
Lindsay Main, 2000
Psychical Graffiti 26
0
5bolts 1 2
A Jon Sedon project from way back. Start climbing on the obvious graffiti towards large huecos, hard under-cling moves make way to sharp crimps and to easier climbing above and to anchor.
Troy Mattingley 2008
Poison Dwarf 28 12m
0
5bolts
Steep route straight through the centre of goat cave via big hueco 4 m right of Physical Graffiti. Trend left at the top to join last bolt of PG.
Owen Davies Sept 2013
Owens Climb 29
0
Takes the line through the sika covered hueco and through the major part of the roof.
Owen Davies 2013
Bf Butterfly 27
0
3bolts
Start four metres right and follow a right-trending seam.
Max Farr, 1999
Tx Tax 24
2.01
3bolts 1
A left trending line under a major roof. Connects to 3rd bolt of Bf.
Jon Sedon, 1999
CBD C.B.D. 24
1.02
2bolts 1
From the same start climb straight up past two bolts, then move slightly right to anchor rings.
Jon Sedon, 1999
GP Grey Power 21
1.02
4bolts
There's life in the old dog yet. At the right edge of the cave. Clip the first bolt from the left and boulder up on variable holds to a rest, then climb the arete, finishing right.
Stu Allan, 2000

Comments

We're working on it but nothing is open yet. Our focus is the left (south) end of the crag.

Hi Lindsay. I see that you have just made a number of updates to Transmitter Crag information, especially the Goat Cave. Does that mean there has been any word on access? Thanks.