The Goat Cave | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

300m

Part of

A cave near the far (north) end of the crag.
The first nine routes on this wall have been erased because the Christchurch Adventure Park chairlift passes directly overhead, and the CAP operating procedures do not allow climbing below it because of the risk of an object (ie mountain bike) falling from the lift.
All hangers and anchors have been removed in this area, except for a couple of rusty hangers on the lower part of a route which cannot be easily accessed.
Do not climb in this area, and do not attempt to re-establish these routes, or set new routes, as this may lead to the ongoing closure of the crag for climbing.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
HD	HDHotdog, 19	19		3	0
Twenty-five metres right is a large cave with several routes. About five metres left of the cave P1 19 3 Gently overhanging black wall with three bolts and anchors. A thin start leads to steeper ground with bigger holds.
2B	2BTwo Bens, 15	15	10m	3	0
P1 15 10m 3 Climb just left of the corner and join the arete. Double bolt anchor.
BD	BDBelly Dancer, 16	16			0
P1 16 Start two metres left of Ballerina make your way up trending slightly leftwards across the slabby wall to an anchor on the lip.
Ba	BaBallerina, 19	19		4	0
Twenty-five metres right is Goat Cave. Found just left of the Goat Cave. P1 19 4 Climb straight up the steep wall and arête. move diagonally right to the anchor.
Ea	EaEuthanasia, 20	20		4	0
P1 20 4 Climb a steep juggy wall past a bolt to the right and up to a small roof. Pull through onto a slabby section (dirty and poor rock), and climb on to a short arete below the roof. Move right to clip the last bolt, which is totally hidden about a metre below the finish, and pull over for a surprisingly painless exit. Anchor rings. .
MB	MBMarital Bliss, 18	18		5	1.02
P1 18 5 At the left end of the cave. Haul yourself up a line of jugs on an overhanging wall with three bolts, then go slightly right to finish up the arete. Five bolts and anchor bolts without rings. .
Sh	ShSloth, 22	22		6	1.02
P1 22 6 Start as for Slothful but continue directly over the bulging roof, continue up the corner above to a combined anchor with MB.
Sl	SlSlothful, 21	21		5	2.01
P1 21 5 A metre right, follows a right-trending crack at the edge of the cave. Pull up on pockets or brittle holds to a ledge, and move rightward following the crack to jugs on the lip, then easy to the anchors.
	Psychical Graffiti, 26	26		5	0
P1 26 5 A Jon Sedon project from way back. Start climbing on the obvious graffiti towards large huecos, hard under-cling moves make way to sharp crimps and to easier climbing above and to anchor.
	Poison Dwarf, 28	28	12m	5	0
P1 28 12m 5 Steep route straight through the centre of goat cave via big hueco 4 m right of Physical Graffiti. Trend left at the top to join last bolt of PG.
	Owens Climb, 29	29			0
P1 29 Takes the line through the sika covered hueco and through the major part of the roof.
Bf	BfButterfly, 27	27		3	0
P1 27 3 Start four metres right and follow a right-trending seam.
Tx	TxTax, 24	24		3	2.01
P1 24 3 A left trending line under a major roof. Connects to 3rd bolt of Bf.
CBD	CBDC.B.D., 24	24		2	1.02
P1 24 2 From the same start climb straight up past two bolts, then move slightly right to anchor rings.
GP	GPGrey Power, 21	21		4	1.02
P1 21 4 There's life in the old dog yet. At the right edge of the cave. Clip the first bolt from the left and boulder up on variable holds to a rest, then climb the arete, finishing right.

Comments

Lindsay Main

content_editor

We're working on it but nothing is open yet. Our focus is the left (south) end of the crag.

Tue, 14/08/2018 - 17:44 Permalink

climbersam

Hi Lindsay. I see that you have just made a number of updates to Transmitter Crag information, especially the Goat Cave. Does that mean there has been any word on access? Thanks.

Mon, 13/08/2018 - 09:05 Permalink

UUID

b91c9109-7bcf-4100-9cd3-a8f5d9da0980