Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The crag is just visible from the Gun Implacements. Try some of Tonys sport routes so the gorse does not take over.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South
Access:
Descend through the bush on the east (right hand) side of the crag

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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New Age Power | 24 |
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7 bolts. It goes through the roofs where they are biggest. Start up TYATR for three bolts, then straight up through the roofs. One hold is glued.
Marcus Thomas '99
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Into The Groove | 21 |
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left of the other routes. Natural pro, finishes at chains at two-thirds height.
Lindsay Main '99
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Revenge of the Gorse | 20 |
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Prominant corner at grassy clearing. Steep start with bolt at crux, then up
groove & corner crack. Above 2nd bolt, good holds lead to chains or gully to
right
Lindsay Main 97
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In The Rough | 24 |
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Start below the overhang left of “Par for the Course”, strenuous
footloose climbing to good holds by the first bolt, thin moves up to the
second bolt. Step right to gain the thin vertical rib, third bolt, move up
more easily to the fourth bolt and continue up the steep broken groove to
reach a bolt on the right (shared with ???). Easier climbing to the good
resting ledge and bolt (again shared with ???). Move up to the base of the
off width crack (BR) swing up rightwards from the big pocket to slopey holds
and a good jug (BR). Move up one move then swing right and move over to the
belay of ????
Tony Burnell
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Ping | 24 |
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Start as for “Par for the Course”, at the first bolt move left and up to
a bolt, good holds lead to a third bolt. Thin climbing up the wall above
before moving left to the fourth bolt. Easier climbing to a good resting
ledge. Move into a scoop on the right and up to undercuts in the roof. Steep
climbing up the face to past the last bolt and then the double bolt belay at
the top.
Tony Burnell
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Par for the Course | 19 |
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Start at a wide crack (good wires) biridge right to gain the ledge. Then
climb right crack on the right of the pillar, finish through roof as for
TWIAV chains
Lindsay Main 97
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The world is a Vampire | 19 |
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Start below the left edgeof the big roofs. Boulder up to 1st bolt (crux) the
up easy wall above to a large block. Over this to the 2nd bolt and left (
trad pro)
for the overhung exit on jugs, to rap chains
Marcus Thomas 97
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The Young And the Reckless | 22 |
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Start at grooveand boulder to 1st bolt, climb thin wall past 2 more
bolts(crux). Above 3rd bolt move rightthrough roofs (cam) to the 4th boltand
over final roof with cams.
Marcus Thomas 97
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Eight Pints | 18 |
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Not recomended! How else do you get up the ugly sister, (to put the rap
chians in)?
Use 1st bolt of Y&R go up RH tending crackto rap stn on Ss
Grant Piper
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Ameteur Productions | 18 | 22m |
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Start right of 8 pints. Climb arete, crossing 8 pints, trough small overhang
to rap stn.
Clayton Garbes
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Sideshow | 22 | 20m |
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Start right of AP, up through techo wall onto ledge & finish on bigger holds
to rap stn
Grant Piper
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Stage Fright | 23 | 23m |
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Start using 1st bolt on Ss. Move rightwards to 2nd bolt through crux to
ledge, then move ono bigger holds but steeper ground to strong finish and
step upto rap stn
Grant Piper
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Body Langauge | 18 |
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Boulder up easy angled crack at rhside of wall. Up to the 1st roof ad pull
over on the right to a cramped stanceunder the next smaller roff.
Up with cams in the horizontal crack, and over final roof on right with small
cams. Move Left across apron to the rap chain.
Lindsay Main 97
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The Bat | 25 |
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Takes a line up the steep grove to the left of (Marcus Thomas Project)
without recourse to the crack on the left. Climb the groove direct and the
short steep wall to a no hands rest on a ledge below the big roof. No. 1 -
11/2 CD. Move up the steepening wall to good holds, move right to a bolt on
the lip. Straight up again to good holds before moving right and up to the
belay of (Marcus Thomas Project). The route is probably dirty and there are
some loose holds on the head wall.
Tony Burnell
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Slap Stick | 25 |
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The over hang, left of the Harold Meyers corner. Start off the tree left of
the Harold Meyers corner, climb the groove to the roof, pass this with
difficulty to easier climbing on the slabby wall above, double bolt belay
just left of the arête.
Tony Burnell
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Comedy | 25 |
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The roof left of the crack line taken by ‘Resurgence’. Start up
Resurgence’ to the roof. From the big holds swing out left and cross the
roof to gain the blunt arête. Climb the arête to the top before moving left
to the belay of ‘Slap Stick’
Tony Burnell
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Resurgence | 23 |
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The over hanging, crack line left of Harold Meyers corner. Start up a groove
to the roof, pass this up to big holds and gain the base of the crack. Climb
the crack on the left side move back right above the last bolt where easier
climbing leads to a double belay.
Tony Burnell
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Skid Mark | 21 |
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The prominent corner with the brown streak in it’s left wall. Start up the
smooth wall with rounded hold after the second bolt move left into the corner
(3rd BR) bridge up the groove to the roof, pass this then carry on up the
groove on big holds. Climb the crack move back left at the top to a bolt
belay.
Tony Burnell
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Skid Row | 22 |
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Start as for “Skid Mark” but at the second bolt continue up the steep
wall right of the arete. Move back right at the top to a bolt belay.
Tony Burnell
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Black Mass | 14 |
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Up prominant black corner on RHS of crag. includes greasy rock & a dead tree,
step up the ramp leading right to exit.
Henry Mares 77
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Game On! | 21 | 23m |
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Bolted route right of BM, following arete & face to the left of small roof to
easy slab that steepens up at the last bolt, savouring the exposure for the
rap stn.
Grant Piper
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Attribution:
By Lindsay Main, other added in climbs by Tony Burnell
Copied in by Grant piper
This place appears in
UUID:
8f017671-7382-41d9-ade2-c59796c46a77