Ugly Sister

(21 routes)

Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The crag is just visible from the Gun Implacements. Try some of Tonys sport routes so the gorse does not take over.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Access: 

Descend through the bush on the east (right hand) side of the crag

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
New Age Power
0
7 bolts. It goes through the roofs where they are biggest. Start up TYATR for three bolts, then straight up through the roofs. One hold is glued. Marcus Thomas '99
Into The Groove
0
left of the other routes. Natural pro, finishes at chains at two-thirds height. Lindsay Main '99
Revenge of the Gorse 20
0
Prominant corner at grassy clearing. Steep start with bolt at crux, then up groove & corner crack. Above 2nd bolt, good holds lead to chains or gully to right
Lindsay Main 97
In The Rough 24
0
Start below the overhang left of “Par for the Course”, strenuous footloose climbing to good holds by the first bolt, thin moves up to the second bolt. Step right to gain the thin vertical rib, third bolt, move up more easily to the fourth bolt and continue up the steep broken groove to reach a bolt on the right (shared with ???). Easier climbing to the good resting ledge and bolt (again shared with ???). Move up to the base of the off width crack (BR) swing up rightwards from the big pocket to slopey holds and a good jug (BR). Move up one move then swing right and move over to the belay of ????
Tony Burnell
Ping 24
0
Start as for “Par for the Course”, at the first bolt move left and up to a bolt, good holds lead to a third bolt. Thin climbing up the wall above before moving left to the fourth bolt. Easier climbing to a good resting ledge. Move into a scoop on the right and up to undercuts in the roof. Steep climbing up the face to past the last bolt and then the double bolt belay at the top.
Tony Burnell
Par for the Course 19
0
Start at a wide crack (good wires) biridge right to gain the ledge. Then climb right crack on the right of the pillar, finish through roof as for TWIAV chains
Lindsay Main 97
The world is a Vampire 19
0
Start below the left edgeof the big roofs. Boulder up to 1st bolt (crux) the up easy wall above to a large block. Over this to the 2nd bolt and left ( trad pro) for the overhung exit on jugs, to rap chains
Marcus Thomas 97
The Young And the Reckless 22
0
Start at grooveand boulder to 1st bolt, climb thin wall past 2 more bolts(crux). Above 3rd bolt move rightthrough roofs (cam) to the 4th boltand over final roof with cams.
Marcus Thomas 97
Eight Pints 18
0
Not recomended! How else do you get up the ugly sister, (to put the rap chians in)? Use 1st bolt of Y&R go up RH tending crackto rap stn on Ss
Grant Piper
Ameteur Productions 18 22m
0
Start right of 8 pints. Climb arete, crossing 8 pints, trough small overhang to rap stn.
Clayton Garbes
Sideshow 22 20m
0
Start right of AP, up through techo wall onto ledge & finish on bigger holds to rap stn
Grant Piper
Stage Fright 23 23m
0
Start using 1st bolt on Ss. Move rightwards to 2nd bolt through crux to ledge, then move ono bigger holds but steeper ground to strong finish and step upto rap stn
Grant Piper
Body Langauge 18
0
Boulder up easy angled crack at rhside of wall. Up to the 1st roof ad pull over on the right to a cramped stanceunder the next smaller roff. Up with cams in the horizontal crack, and over final roof on right with small cams. Move Left across apron to the rap chain.
Lindsay Main 97
The Bat 25
2.01
Takes a line up the steep grove to the left of (Marcus Thomas Project) without recourse to the crack on the left. Climb the groove direct and the short steep wall to a no hands rest on a ledge below the big roof. No. 1 - 11/2 CD. Move up the steepening wall to good holds, move right to a bolt on the lip. Straight up again to good holds before moving right and up to the belay of (Marcus Thomas Project). The route is probably dirty and there are some loose holds on the head wall.
Tony Burnell
Slap Stick 25
0
The over hang, left of the Harold Meyers corner. Start off the tree left of the Harold Meyers corner, climb the groove to the roof, pass this with difficulty to easier climbing on the slabby wall above, double bolt belay just left of the arête.
Tony Burnell
Comedy 25
0
The roof left of the crack line taken by ‘Resurgence’. Start up Resurgence’ to the roof. From the big holds swing out left and cross the roof to gain the blunt arête. Climb the arête to the top before moving left to the belay of ‘Slap Stick’
Tony Burnell
Resurgence 23
0
The over hanging, crack line left of Harold Meyers corner. Start up a groove to the roof, pass this up to big holds and gain the base of the crack. Climb the crack on the left side move back right above the last bolt where easier climbing leads to a double belay.
Tony Burnell
Skid Mark 21
0
The prominent corner with the brown streak in it’s left wall. Start up the smooth wall with rounded hold after the second bolt move left into the corner (3rd BR) bridge up the groove to the roof, pass this then carry on up the groove on big holds. Climb the crack move back left at the top to a bolt belay.
Tony Burnell
Skid Row 22
0
Start as for “Skid Mark” but at the second bolt continue up the steep wall right of the arete. Move back right at the top to a bolt belay.
Tony Burnell
Black Mass 14
0
Up prominant black corner on RHS of crag. includes greasy rock & a dead tree, step up the ramp leading right to exit.
Henry Mares 77
Game On! 21 23m
0
Bolted route right of BM, following arete & face to the left of small roof to easy slab that steepens up at the last bolt, savouring the exposure for the rap stn.
Grant Piper
Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main, other added in climbs by Tony Burnell Copied in by Grant piper

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