Place info

The (West) Twisted Sister

(39 routes)

A steep south-facing trachyte cliff, The rock has amazing friction.

Lindsay Main discovered it in 1974, but decided there were less steep things to do on the Middle Sister. Joe Arts did the first two routes, Future Cops and Wages of Fear, both of which are already classics, early in 1994; then later that year Marcus Thomas took an interest. They happened to meet there one day and thereafter collaborated on the remaining of the easier routes during the 94/95 summer. The following summer Roland Foster, John McCallum, and others started working on the harder routes

  • South

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South

A steep south-facing trachyte cliff, The rock has amazing friction.

Lindsay Main discovered it in 1974, but decided there were less steep things to do on the Middle Sister. Joe Arts did the first two routes, Future Cops and Wages of Fear, both of which are already classics, early in 1994; then later that year Marcus Thomas took an interest. They happened to meet there one day and thereafter collaborated on the remaining of the easier routes during the 94/95 summer. The following summer Roland Foster, John McCallum, and others started working on the harder routes

Access: 

Find the Track in the bush, and descend down the west side of the crag.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
26
0
16m
  Just right of a gully. Follow the bolts to an abseil chain. Roland Foster '96
28
1.02
 

Derek Thatcher

TT
22
1.02
16m
  Obvious steep line of bolts above tree to abseil chain. The steepest route of its grade on the Port Hills. Then again, it could be 23. Look out for the tree. Clinton Bevan '96
G
22
0
16m
  Start up first 2 bolts on TT branch out right to estabish self on wall above overhang, uptom rap stn. Grant Piper 05
28
0
 

Derek ThatcherBolted by Owen Davies

DJ
26
0
6X bolts
 

Phil de Joux’s old project climb deviously up through the series of rooves and corners past two ring bolts and two petzl, finish up the slab above past two more bolts to a double bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

24
0
8X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Start as for “Onga Onga Via Interflora” traverse left past BW & PP before going over the roof & up,the wall just right of DJJ

Tony Burnell 21 Oct 1999

26
1.02
7X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Start as for “Onga Onga Via Interflora” but traverse left past the groove of “Bullworker” left again under the main roof, pull with difficulty into the vague groove through the bulging roof. Finnish up the wall leftwards to then back right to the belay of “Bullworker

Tony Burnell 27 December 2002

29
2.01
8X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
2
  Climbs the main roof at the foot of the crag and joins Palm Pilot above this, follow Palm Pilot to the top. Bolts in the main roof were placed by Tom Adamson.

Jarrod Alexander 2016

Bw
25
1.02
17m
6X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  follow OOVI to the first bolt, then head off left under the roof and up. Tony Burnell '99

Tony Burnell December 1998

25
1.02
 

An alternative finish to ‘Onga Onga Via Interflora’ from the third bolt at the top of the first wall move left and climb the steep wall on small holds past two bolts. As the angle eases the holds disappear leaving you on the usual rounded red holds.

Tony Burnell

OI
24
3
16m
  The line of bolts with a steep headwall on the left wall of the WOF corner. Start at WOF and move left. Abseil chain. Phil Higgins '96
WF
22
2.01
16m
  Starts off a boulder and goes up a corner on the east side of the cliff through some steep terrain, heading right at the top to a chain. Joe Arts '94
SS
25
2.01
 

Start just right of ‘Wages of Fear’ in a right facing corner under a large roof. Swing out right over the roof and climb the series of steep bulges past two bolts to a third bolt on a slab. Difficult moves over the roof enable a standing position to be gained in the corner above. Move up the corner staying to the left of the last bolt on R. F. project, move right to insitu belay, alternatively finish up the groove to the belay of “Wages of F” .

Tony Burnell

SOS
27
1.02
 

Start as for Hatched Matched & Despatched to the fourth bolt then move back and up easily to a rest below the final roof. Move out along the lip past two more bolts before strenuously moving up into a short hanging corner. Finish round right to a double bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

27
2.01
6X bolts
 

In the centre of the crag is an undercut wall capped by large roof, the wall is split by some large cracks to the left and by shallow groove at it’s left side.
Start just right of the base of the groove. A boulder problem start past the first bolt enables you to gain the groove above the small fuchsia. Climb the groove past two bolts to a good rest under the roof. Move left under the roof toward the arete until good holds lead you up a steep a series of short steep corners past two more bolts. Swing out right onto the head wall, last bolt, to rejoin the steep crack, finish up this to a double bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

OO
24
1.02
15m
  A line of bolts leading leftward from the start of TLS through the overlaps to a belay chain. Long arms are helpful. John McCallum '96
23
0
 

The wall and roof right of the John McCallum’s line ‘Onga-Ongarangoutang’. Start as for ‘OO’ to the first bolt then continue straight up to the roof and through a groove before moving left across the slab and uo to the belay of ‘OO’.

Tony Burnell

23
0
13m
  The obvious crack 10 m right of WOF. Somewhat deceptive in appearance. Joe Arts '95
TS
18
2.01
13m
  Start on the right and over a bulge past a bolt (crux) and CD; then left across the wall at the second bolt to finish up arete past another bolt. Bolt anchors. If you start on the left it's 20/21.
SDO
20
0
10m
  Two metres right. Boulder up right arête/chimney (no pro) to the bolt, where the holds take you up and slightly right. Then you can amble up to the top (no pro), or forget the second, traverse left and climb down the chimney, unclipping the bolt as you go. Either way it's not a sport route. Marcus Thomas '95
FC
21
3
12m
  Three bolts on a lovely slab. Start to the right and traverse left to the first bolt. Crux at the top where you move rightward past the bolt and up. There's a wire cable anchor around a tree. Joe Arts '94
PP
25
2.01
15m
  a bolted line up the blind cracks and groove on the red wall left of Constant Craving. Tony Burnell '99
S&S
22
1.02
18m
  Start about two metres right up a vague arete below the ledge, (committing and unprotected), then up fingery wall (crux) past the first bolt and on to the slopers waiting at the top. Easier for the tall. Take care between the bolts, as the ledge is not far below. Currently the anchors are a problem (as if you didn't have enough already). Marcus Thomas '95
17
0
18m
  Onto the ramp just right of SSI and climb the obvious crack above, with a committing move on its right arete. Natural pro. At the top move right to the chains at the top of EOD. Marcus Thomas '94
ED
22
0
15m
  Start as for SL but from the easy ramp climb the crack further right (CDs), then up to the right of the bolts and mantle onto slopers. Abseil Marcus Thomas '94chain. Also has a direct start with 1 bolt thanks to Kev Nicholas
GF
20
1.02
18m
  From the cave at base of a chimney muscle past the bolt and into an inviting crack. From the ledge climb either the left crack (okay) or the right arete (cool) with good moves. Difficult if any pro on the arête. There's a staunch move leftwards up a short wall at the top to reach the Energy of Dogs abseil chain. Marcus Thomas '94
19
0
18m
  The corner to the right. Boulder start up bulge to ledge (perhaps easier on the right). Good pro in the crack. Again to the EOD chain. Marcus Thomas '94
22
1.02
 

Start about three metre right of the arete and the start of ‘Meluzina Man’. Climbs the initial bulge and up the slabby wall past three bolts to the large roof, bounded on its right by a decomposing pillar. Climb the crack through the right side of the roof on good holds to the top of the pillar passing a fourth bolt on the way. Move left across the head wall below the final roof past the last bolt and a series of large gas blown pockets until you can climb straight up to a ledge and belay on the arete.

Tony Burnell

25
1.02
 

tart just right of ‘Bilge Pump’ climb directly up the wall to gain a good standing position above the second bolt. Move up and right to the third bolt using poor undercuts and a flat hold move up to an obvious hole below the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt shift right into a vague groove and climb up into the recess above. Awkward moves up the near useless crack lead to a good hold, swing out right and power up to the belay

Tony Burnell

SA
24
1.02
4X bolts
 

Start just left of ‘Killing Capitalism With Kindness’. Using small flakes and crimpers climb the wall past three bolts to the roof. Move left under the roof to the fourth bolt over the lip. Climb the wall above using improving holds to a double bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

23
1.02
 

Start as for “Killing Capitalism with Kindness” at the first bolt continue straight up placing CD’s in the corner crack. Continue up the wall and weave your way through the bulges finally moving left and up to an insitu belay.

Tony Burnell

20
0
13m
1
  A great climb,Now isn't potentially fatal. 4 bolts with hangers lead up the excellent wall. Interestingly after John had replaced the top bolt he went to remove the hanger and the old bolt sheared with with the first crank of the spanner so beware of rusty aged bolts! Possibly best to finish up the last moves of The Corner(at about 21) as a better line enabling the draws to be retrieved. The bottom part of The Corner is overgrown and damp, perhaps best left alone. Marcus Thomas '94
27
1.02
 

Steep climbing up the inverted staircase and hanging flake between ‘Killing Capitalism With Kindness’ and ‘Cock in a Frock….’ Awkward moves past two bolts to the large roof. Move right along the lip past the third bolt and up into the flake with good holds at the top. Swing right an up onto a slab and continue straight up to a two bolt belay on the lip. Cams required for top section where the climb crosses ‘Debris Slide’.

Tony Burnell

DS
18
1.02
15m
  Now has 4 bolts, but take a cam(about 1 Friend size) to protect the moves to the third bolt. Chain and ring at the top Start up CFR (using the bolt) and traverse left to a good ledge, climb straight up from 4th bolt to anchor.

Marcus Thomas '95

CF
22
1.02
15m
5X bolts
Natural gear required
  The name had to be used! Starts in a pod and goes straight up to a bucket past bolts; move right to top out. Has been morally reformed with 5 new bolts and hangers, a good clean up and an extra anchor bolt. However cross-dressing still recommended. Strenuous. Joe Arts '95
17
2.01
14m
  From the base of the tree 6m right, up the groove past two bolts (tricky), then left past the cave (it's too small to hide in) and bolt to exit at the very top of the arete. A little crumbly but a great finish. Anchors are well back, using bushes, but hopefully a chain will be installed soon. Marcus Thomas '95
24
0
12m
  Jon will get around to it one day. The wall 2m right.

Jon Terry

Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis Climbs by Tony BUrnell added in Topo By GRant Piper
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