Middle Sister

(41 routes)

 
The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The biggest crag of the Sisters.
Occasionally gets the afternoon sun.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West
Access: 

Find the track between Twisted and Middle Sister and decend through the bush

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Unnamed 23 7m
0
The short sport route at the left end of the crag
Anti-Tantie 25
0
3bolts
bouldery cruz at 2nd bolt.
Iain Lawson.
Gold Soundz 24 12m
0
The rounded arete.
Marcus Thomas
SO Short Order 16 8m
0
A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top. A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top.
Desert Solitaire 21 8m
0
The smooth arete just R of Short Order. Pro from Short Order and a bolt. Friction, tricky. Brian Fish '81
Caley 23 8m
0
The open corner with one bolt Ton Snelder '90
Penal Rates 22 22m
1.02
The next arete. Start in the corner of A Bridge Too Far and delicately balance L across to the arete, then up. Two bolts, natural pro at the top. Bolt/chain belay. Lindsay Main '90
Rib Eye 21
0
Start at the undercut arête left of A Bridge Too Far climb the rib to the large roof. Use good holds left of a blind groove before a thin break takes you back to the arête and the third bolt, continue straight up to a double bolt belay.
Tony Burnell
B2F A Bridge Too Far 17 14m
0
The second corner to the R of SO. Jam and bridge past a rib. Lindsay Main '77
JW Joggersauras Wrecked 20 16m
0
Sart at VC, move left using flake. Then up wall on RH side of the crackto a break and exit crack.
Neil Sloan
Volcanic Cafe 19 16m
0
A crack with a roof at 2/3 height. Nip up to the roof and grapple with the rounded holds above. Joe Arts '90
CD Corner Dearie 17 16m
1.02
1
The corner left of MWG, crux at start then cruise up gear eating corner
Neil Sloan
MWG The Monkey Wrench Gang 22 16m
2.01
A powerful route up the wall L of Judge and Jury. Starts in a small corner (natural pro), then up the headwall going L then R. Three bolts. Joe Arts '90
J&J Judge & Jury 17 16m
1.02
1
Start in a L-facing black corner above a tree, then swing through the roof and jam the crack.
Lindsay Main '77
Lock & Key 19 20m
2.01
5bolts
Starts on arete immediately left of prominent rockfall scar. Committing moves into the hanging corner. Head right towards DBA at the top.
Michael Eatson, September 2016
Grassic Gibbon 22 20m
2.01
6bolts
Climbs wall to right of lock and key finishing at same lower off
Iain Lawson
FB Frog buttress 23 18m
1.02
1
Start behind tree R of J&J through layaways then veering left to steepening headwall
Richard Kimberley
Sam's Squeeze 10 18m
0
Chimney up behind big detached pillar, exit by squeezing up and right through chockstones to victory. Bit chossy but no doubt will clean up with traffic.
Sam Waetford, solo
Jesse Owens 19 18m
0
1
Starts in an undercut corner/crack with grey rock. Power up past the bolt (crux), then move L to the cracked arete. Joe Arts '90
JOrhv Jesse Owens Direct Finish 19
0
1
From the top of the initial groove step out right onto the top of the pedestal. Continue direct up the cracks above to the top of the crag. Move left to the belay bolt of Suicide Etc. Climbed on sight .
Tony Burnell
SM Suicide Machine 23 18m
1.02
1
Up the wall L of Fear of Flying past two bolts and somewhat to the L of a third bolt, then up the corner above (CDs). Joe Arts '90
NU Nasty & Unconstructive 22 18m
1.02
1
Just right of SM, up the seam through the overhang. 5 bolts. Uses top bolt of SM. Joe Arts '91
FoF Fear of Flying 17 18m
2.01
1
An incipient crack leads to an impressive roof curving to the R. Climb the wall with no pro (16) and traverse R under the roof.
Henry Mares '77
FP Flight Path 20 18m
0
the wall right of FoF, natural pro. Tony Burnell '99
Learning to Fly 20 18m
0
Start up EA. Move L after 2nd bolt onto arete, then pull over small bulge
Marcus Thomas
EAS Evasive Action 17,18 25m
1.02
Skirts the roofs. Up wall past a bolt to first roof and traverse R to the arete. Up past second bolt and into corner, up through notch to finish. Large CD at exit. Rebolted in '96. Lindsay Main '84
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11718m4Yes
 Skirts the roofs. Up wall past a bolt to first roof and traverse R to the arete. Up past second bolt and into corner, up through notch to finish. Large CD at exit. Rebolted in '96. Lindsay Main '84
2187mNo
 Second pitch to Evasive Action. Follow bolts up the arête to a chain anchor at the top. Joe Arts '94
DE Delayed Effect 17 25m
0
Follows the centre of three vague cracks, starting to the right and moving left (crux) to reach the crack. Poor pro at first. Finish up the overhanging corner on good holds. Lindsay Main '81
Afterglow 18 22m
0
R of Delayed Effect. Bridge up groove (poor pro using D.E. crack further up) and up wall to arete (crux). Up over blocks to top. Lindsay Main '84
WO Working Overtime 20 22m
1.02
The arete R of A.. A technical testpiece. One bolt and small wires. Take CDs for the exit past bushes and up a corner. Lindsay Main '90
Taking Care of Business 20 22m
0
Incipient crack between Working Overtime and Ball and Chain. Good pro from small wires. CDs at top. Exit as for W.O. Lindsay Main '90
BC Ball & Chain 15 20m
0
A flaring narrow chimney with jams at the back; crux at the small tree. Not recommended. Lindsay Main '77
PA Pain in the Arts 18 20m
0
Arête left of Sharks' Nest. Start from loose block to bolt, and follow nice moves up right edge of arête past bolt 2 to an easy section. To do part two, womble left and take off up steep overhanging red face past horizontal breaks (CDs) and maybe a bolt. The finish is strenuous and committing. Marcus Thomas '95
SN Shark's Nest 16 20m
1.02
A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge. A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge.
PB Prometheus Busted 16 18m
1.02
1
Climb a short wall to a bulging jam crack (crux), then right to another crack and up to top. Lindsay Main '77
Eliminate 'A' 22
1.02
Takes a line up the wall crossing through ‘Prometheus Busted’. Start at the same point but climb straight up the wall to a hanging flake facing right. Use the flake to climb through the bulge and move straight up the wall to where ‘P B’ moves right. Step left and follow the faint ‘S’ shaped groove up to final head wall. Make a couple of moves and gain the top just below the high point of the crag. Gear spaced double ropes an advantage. Climbed on site.
Tony Burnell
Bolt Revolt 23 18m
0
the bold arete to the right of PB Tony Burnell '99
Grand Central Station 10 12m
0
Obvoius crack , with a bit of vegitation.
Lindsay Main
Kuriuos Oranji 23 12m
0
On wall right of GCS though bulge.
Jonathon Wilkinson
Tangerine Scream 22
1.02
Climbs the blunt arete to the left of ‘Clutching at Straws’, bold and unprotected to the final moves on ‘Clutching at Straws’. Climb the left side of the arete to a good ledge friend 11/2 in shallow pocket on left. Move up onto the good foot ledge on ‘C at S’ good wire placement finish as for ‘C at S’. Brushed before climbing.
Tony Burnell
Clutching at Straws 18 10m
0
On R side of cliff. Start up a R facing corner over a loose pillar. L onto a ledge on the arete, Then up slightly R over the bulge (crux). Adequate pro. Lindsay Main '84
Golden Delicious 22 7m
0
A short tricky climb on the Rh end of the crag
Marcus Thomas
Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main, other added in climbs by Tony Burnell Copied in & topo by Grant piper

This place appears in

UUID: 
2926b5e1-e78d-4f6b-9bce-8415a3a32ff5