Gibraltar Rock

(14 routes)

Although it is Canterbury’s smallest crag, with but a handful of routes, the great rock quality, pleasant routes and nice setting make Gibraltar Rock worth a visit on a summer’s day.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
500m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
10 min
Access: 

Gibraltar Rock is situated below the Summit Road about eight kilometres from Dyers Pass on the way to Gebbies Pass, overlooking Tai Tapu. The crag is owned by the Summit Road Society and is open for climbing.

Park at the Omahu Bush Reserve car park on the west side of the Summit Road and walk down the track through the bush, turning off up to the gate with the NZAC sign. Follow the fenceline through the small gate and then veer off to the north, following the waratahs with orange markers around the north side of the ridge, contouring around to the crag after a few hundred metres.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.660151380000, 172.614289190000
NZMS260: 
M36 789 274
Topo50: 
BX24 689 658
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
H Hydrabollocks 23
0
wire representing trad
This route is in a gully on the the left side of the crag, on one of the larger facets of rock. An obvious crack leads to a resting place before moving right to climb a shallow corner. A foothold on the wall right of the rib enables a reach to be made to higher handholds, then up to easy climbing. Note: Too much slack can swing the climber to ground level!
John Chambers, 1984
SS Soft Soap 7
0
wire representing trad
P Penitence 12
0
wire representing trad
The second gully left of the main face is climbed on good holds. Good protection.
DH Dynamo Hum 15
0
wire representing trad 1
Up the slightly overhanging wall right of the Penitence gully. Climb up on small holds and underclings to join the Wasted Daze arête at the top. Good protection.
WD Wasted Daze 16
1.02
wire representing trad
Takes the left arête of the slabby wall. Easier if the central line is followed until three-quarters height, before moving left to the arête. Tricky to protect.
WDD Wasted Daze Direct 20
0
wire representing trad
Start up Wasted Daze and continue up the centre of the wall, moving a little right at the top. A bit gripping if you’re not a good slab climber and poor protection bothers you!
CdG Coup de Grace 14
1.02
wire representing trad
The gully groove left of the main face. Protection is adequate. There is a DBA with rings at the top of the gully on the right.
I Iconoclast 15
2.01
wire representing trad 1
A pleasant climb. Gain the arête just right of Coup de Grace using cracks on the left, and continue up to the little headwall. (While protection on the route is generally good, the angle peg here is old – use at your own risk.) Climb the crack and on to the top. Double bolt belay on top of the block.
Knob Gnarley Arête 17
0
wire representing trad
Neville Taylor, 1991
TW The Wasteland 22
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad 1
The left side of the main wall. A bolt protects the initial difficult move, then climb up to more gear then right and up to the horizontal break. Place cams in the break and commit to the finish up the bulging wall above.
John Allen, 1979
PH Private Hell 22
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Climb the wall right of The Wasteland past a bolt, then continue on easier face climbing trending right and finishing up Salisbury Hill.
Dave Fearnley, 1983
SH Salisbury Hill 24
0
wire representing trad 1
The right arête of the main face is the test piece of the crag. From the shelf, climb up into a corner. Then move right and, with much difficulty, use the crack to climb the bulge and move right to the arête. Place cams in the break and move on to the right wall, then back left to gain the summit jugs. Good protection on the bottom section (but back up the fixed wire).
John Allen
Hangman 22 23m
3
wire representing trad
Start as for Salisbury Hill but traverse R under rooflet out to arete. Place cams and move direct up red face R of arete to crux move back onto arete. Finish up SH. Double ropes essential.
John McCallum & Jamie Vinton-Boot 2011
SS Salisbury Sewer 17
0
wire representing trad
Around the corner on the south facing wall, this route is nearly always wet. Climb the obvious fist and offwidth crack with a small roof at the bottom. There are some good moves here for the connoisseur of scungy cracks.
Brent Davis, 1982.
Attribution: 
Lindsay Main. Photo Clayton Garbes.

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