Gibraltar Rock

This route is in a gully on the the left side of the crag, on one of the larger facets of rock. An obvious crack leads to a resting place before moving right to climb a shallow corner. A foothold on the wall right of the rib enables a reach to be made to higher handholds, then up to easy climbing. Note: Too much slack can swing the climber to ground level!

Move left on the ledge 3m up to gain the arete, which gives good positions. An excellent first trad lead with good placements.

The second gully left of the main face is climbed on good holds. Good protection.

Up the slightly overhanging wall right of the Penitence gully. Climb up on small holds and underclings to join the Wasted Daze arête at the top. Good protection.

Takes the left arête of the slabby wall. Easier if the central line is followed until three-quarters height, before moving left to the arête. Tricky to protect.

Start up Wasted Daze and continue up the centre of the wall, moving a little right at the top. A bit gripping if you’re not a good slab climber and poor protection bothers you!

The gully groove left of the main face. Protection is adequate. There is a DBA with rings at the top of the gully on the right.

A pleasant climb. Gain the arête just right of Coup de Grace using cracks on the left, and continue up to the little headwall. (While protection on the route is generally good, the angle peg here is old – use at your own risk.) Climb the crack and on to the top. Double bolt belay on top of the block.

The left side of the main wall. A bolt protects the initial difficult move, then climb up to more gear then right and up to the horizontal break. Place cams in the break and commit to the finish up the bulging wall above.

Climb the wall right of The Wasteland past a bolt, then continue on easier face climbing trending right and finishing up Salisbury Hill.

The right arête of the main face is the test piece of the crag. From the shelf, climb up into a corner. Then move right and, with much difficulty, use the crack to climb the bulge and move right to the arête. Place cams in the break and move on to the right wall, then back left to gain the summit jugs. Good protection on the bottom section (but back up the fixed wire).

Start as for Salisbury Hill but traverse R under rooflet out to arete. Place cams and move direct up red face R of arete to crux move back onto arete. Finish up SH. Double ropes essential.

The first route on the left side of the south face. Climb up though the small chimney feature, veer leftwards up the face to the left facing corner. When the corner peters out, veer right onto the vertical face, at the top of the face, zig left and zag back right to the rap station at the summit.

Around the corner on the south facing wall, this route is nearly always wet. Climb the obvious fist and offwidth crack with a small roof at the bottom. There are some good moves here for the connoisseur of scungy cracks.

Starts wide groove feature, then moves left onto the face. The face turns into a slab moves to finish at the rap station