Place info

Cwag W

(17 routes)

This is the large orange lichen-covered cliff above the path 50m west of Crag X.

A couple of bands of poor rock low down corrupt the otherwise good solid rock with adventurous climbing and at over twenty metres, the routes are of reasonable length. There are rumoured to be some top belay bolts, but a long sling for bollards is likely to be handy anyway. Descent is via a bit of a grovel in prickly scrub through to the Crater Rim track and down the zig zag, or over to the grassy gully west of Crag V. Alternatively rap off.

The short steep wall left of Gorgeous Groove will produce a couple of problems which will be low on pro.

There has been a number of climbs described below, some have disappeared in the earthquakes. Allan Hill and friends put in trad routes in the late 90s, since then the crag has been abandoned, currently the crag is getting modernised, with routes that carry on through the the length of the crag.
  • South

    Aspect

  • 300m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South
Altitude: 
300m

This is the large orange lichen-covered cliff above the path 50m west of Crag X.

A couple of bands of poor rock low down corrupt the otherwise good solid rock with adventurous climbing and at over twenty metres, the routes are of reasonable length. There are rumoured to be some top belay bolts, but a long sling for bollards is likely to be handy anyway. Descent is via a bit of a grovel in prickly scrub through to the Crater Rim track and down the zig zag, or over to the grassy gully west of Crag V. Alternatively rap off.

The short steep wall left of Gorgeous Groove will produce a couple of problems which will be low on pro.

There has been a number of climbs described below, some have disappeared in the earthquakes. Allan Hill and friends put in trad routes in the late 90s, since then the crag has been abandoned, currently the crag is getting modernised, with routes that carry on through the the length of the crag.
Access: 

Approaches
The simplest approach is from the Summit Road at the Major Hornbrook Track, as for Lyttelton Rock, and walking along the bluffs track. However this is quite long. The fastest approach is to park on the Summit Road about at the macrocarpa trees and walk south across Richmond Hill Farm, Southwards along the vehicle track to the gun implacements, go to the right hand end (west) and pick up and follow, the track that drops downwards over the crest of the ridge, (towards Lyttleton Rock).

Restrictions
No access across Richmond Hill Farm during lambing (the month of August). Use the bluffs track from Lyttelton Rock or the Middle Sister. Otherwise there is access across the farm without permission.

NZMS260: 
M36 885 352
Topo50: 
BX24 785 736
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
16
0
Natural gear required
  Climbs the left arête of the wall to the left of Gorgeous Groove, gained from the blind crack in the lower tier (starting around to the R makes the grade a more consistent 14).

Norman Ragg, 1999.

19
0
Natural gear required
  Climbs the wall just L of Gorgeous Groove, past a small shrub. The headwall is much steeper than it looks, with fairly good gear improving towards the top.

Hamish Reid 2000.

PJ
18
1.02
20m
6X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climbs the cracks in the quake scar. Start on the porous rock ramp climb past the staples to the off width crack, gain the top of the block, the finish up the old school splitter crack to the DBB.

Bernie Frankpitt 2018

RH
19
0
20m
Natural gear required
  Start on the porous ramp immediatley right of the quake scar, work your way rightwards and up the grey face until you are capped by a roof. Move left around the arete and onto a ledge. from the ledge climb the twin crack system veering rightwards to the corner at the top of the crag and DBB.

Bernie Frankpitt 2018

Ql
20
1.02
  Excellent sustained climbing after the initial tree move. Start 8m R of No Future, from the log block. Climb directly to the fuchsia (cam #0.5). Move L and up a large flake, then slightly R to bulge. Over this, and through notch to knobbly wall. Up to corner system, follow RW then scuttle off R to avoid summit wall.

Alan Hill 1999.

FC
22
2.01
25m
7X bolts
Natural gear required
  Goes through sections of the Quaker route. "And now for something completely different. " 3 cruxes of entertainment. Start left of the 1st staple, veer right to the traditional corner. Aim leftwards and up though the overlap under the split roof. Make your through the roof onto the ramp into then up the left facing corner, onto the ledge. Clip the 6th staple, place an #8 wire above and to the left. Hit the lay back and onto the roll over to the rap station.

Grant Piper 2018

Qk
22
2.01
Natural gear required
  Superb climbing on good rock. Start just R of Quail at the fused block behind a bush. Up to OH at 4m, move R into corner (bomber wires). Climb up and step L to slab (cams), then layback the OH via the arête. Move L to OH below bush, over the bulge, move R and finish up the overhanging corner.

Alan Hill 1999.

PB
18
0
25m
8X bolts
  Start up the grey wall, past 3 staples. where the climb steepens up veer rightwards to haul on the positive holds, then work your way into base of the gully. From there exit out the left wall of the gully, then up the series of steps to the rap station.

Jonathon Tye 2018

Sc
18
0
25m
Natural gear required
  Go to the grassy ledge above where the track goes downhill. Start on the huge chickenhead low in the wall and squirm up onto the slab. Move R into the cleft then straight up. Mantle up through the ledge/wall system at the top. Spaced pro.

Phil Stuart-Jones '95

Gg
18
0
18m
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Goes up a short wall past 3 staples intoa small crack to gain a ledge. Clip the 4th staple, then move leftwards on the ledge, and then up the left facing corner and onto the right side of the pillar, using the crack for wires. Finishing up the ramps to the rap station

Grant Piper 2018

OP
16
0
Natural gear required
  Start up and L 10m, before vegetated gully. Up by orange steak, then up and LW through small notch to base of wide slanting crack. Avoid this on the R, then past tree to top.

Matt Bennett 2000

15
0
Natural gear required
  The separate buttress some 15m to the R and lower down. Undercut start below the incut square hole, trending up and leftwards to finish left of pointed block. Large sling for block, and wires.

Hamish Reid 1999.

0
Gone
 
16
0
22m
Natural gear required
Gone
  Start on the short steep knobbly white wall about 5m R of GG then up into the R-facing corner with two bushes and up onto the ledge. Move R up the wall and crack and exit on the arete. Good pro where it's needed. Phil Stuart-Jones '95
20
1.02
Gone
  Start just R of the foot of Gorgeous Groove. Through a roof to slab below large hole (bomber wires #2-4 on right). Traverse R a few moves, then up the arête. Move back L to climb the LH OH. (A direct version goes straight past the hole to the OH on good holds, but poor protection).

Alan Hill, 1999.

19
0
Natural gear required
Gone
  Start 4m to the R by red incut. Over bulge to ledge, up wall to gear placements in L-facing corner above shrub. Traverse up and L to join and finish as for No Future.

Alan Hill 2000.

Attribution: 
Lindsay Main, Allan Hill (guide that has surfaced after nearly 20 years.)

Places

Actions
Wall Crag V (1 route)

Comments

Comments

Less of it fell down than I expected. Good to see you tying it together with bolts Grubbie

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