

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Gnarly Stools | 16 |
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Climbs the left arête of the wall to the left of Gorgeous Groove, gained from the blind crack in the lower tier (starting around to the R makes the grade a more consistent 14).
Norman Ragg, 1999.
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Three Blind Mice | 19 |
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Climbs the wall just L of Gorgeous Groove, past a small shrub. The headwall is much steeper than it looks, with fairly good gear improving towards the top.
Hamish Reid 2000.
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PJ | Peanut Butter & Jam | 19 | 25m |
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Found on the quake scar. Starts on a ramp of porous rock, go up the corner then onto the traditional splitter crack to the top of the climb
Bernie Frankpitt 2018
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RH | Right Hexit | 19 | 25m |
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Climb Welease Woderwick past the first two bolts, move up past a third bolt and cross the arete on your left at the large overhanging pocket. Exit right up the crack system to a DBA.
Bernie Frankpitt 2018
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WW | Welease Woderiwick | 22 | 25m |
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At the left end of the main face. Start at staple and gain the ledge. Veer rightwards going to left facing corner, when capped by the roof go rightwards onto the face, then through the overlap and on the band of pocks. Carry on up to the overhung right facing corner the exit out left to finish the last 5 metres of Right Hexit, to gain the anchors. Powerful moves.
Dave Van der Krabben, Grant Piper 2018
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PL | Plum Line | 21 | 25m |
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Excellent sustained climbing. Uses a portion of the original Quail route (done by Allan Hill 1999)
Start up directly to the fuchsia past the 1st staple . Move L and up left of a large flake, then slightly R and bridge over a void, to a bulge. Over this, and through notch to knobbly wall. Up to corner system, (2x 15-20mm cams) follow L-wards onto slopping ledge then negotiate the head wall via small corner, finishing at the double rap station in the LH facing corner
Dave Van der Krabben 2018
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FC | Flying Circus | 22 | 25m |
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Goes through sections of the Quaker route.
"And now for something completely different. " 3 cruxes of entertainment. Start left of the 1st staple, veer right to the traditional corner.
Aim leftwards and up though the overlap under the split roof. Make your way through the roof, onto the ramp, then up the left facing corner onto the ledge.
Clip the 6th staple, place a #8 wire above and to the left.
Hit the lay back and onto the roll over to the rap station.
Grant Piper 2018
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Qk | Quaker | 22 |
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Superb climbing on good rock.
Start just R of Quail at the fused block behind a bush. Up to OH at 4m, move R into corner (bomber wires). Climb up and step L to slab (cams), then layback the OH via the arête. Move L to OH below bush, over the bulge, move R and finish up the overhanging corner.
Alan Hill 1999.
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PB | Peaky Blinders Orders | 18 | 25m |
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Start up the grey wall, past 3 staples. where the climb steepens up veer rightwards to haul on the positive holds, then work your way into base of the gully. From there exit out the left wall of the gully, then up the series of steps to the rap station.
Jonathon Tye 2018
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HB | Heavy Boson | 20 | 25m |
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Start underneath the bulbous growth, up short overhanging wall followed by a pull onto a slab. After clipping the 3rd bolt on PEAKY BLINDERS ORDERS traverse right into a deep crack which ends in an overhanging wall.
Trad gear - small to large cams & wires - are required for the top and middle of the route.
Steve Moore 2019
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Sc | Scorpion | 18 | 25m |
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Go to the grassy ledge above where the track goes downhill. Start on the huge chickenhead low in the wall and squirm up onto the slab. Move R into the cleft then straight up. Mantle up through the ledge/wall system at the top. Spaced pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones '95
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Gg | Gwabingo | 18 | 18m |
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Goes up a short wall past 3 staples intoa small crack to gain a ledge.
Clip the 4th staple, then move leftwards on the ledge, and then up the left facing corner and onto the right side of the pillar, using the crack for wires.
Finishing up the ramps to the rap station
Grant Piper 2018
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OP | Orange Peel | 16 |
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Start up and L 10m, before vegetated gully. Up by orange steak, then up and LW through small notch to base of wide slanting crack. Avoid this on the R, then past tree to top.
Matt Bennett 2000
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FGD | I fart in your genewal diwection | 15 | 20m |
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Share the 3 first bolts of Gwabingo, then traverse rightward. Climb centre/left of the 6th bolt, then finish on the prow.
The belayer can use a sling to safe himself to a prominent horn as the bottom of the crag is steep and bushy.
Takes at least 1 day and 1/2 to dry, the red lichen is very slippery when wet.
Robin Jodon, December 2018
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CM | Coconuts Migwation | 16 | 20m |
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Same as FGD, climb right of the 6th bolt, then steep finish on a small depression and roof. Good holds though.
Robin Jodon, December 2018
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Flamin’ Glory | 15 |
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The separate buttress some 15m to the R and lower down. Undercut start below the incut square hole, trending up and leftwards to finish left of pointed block. Large sling for block, and wires.
Hamish Reid 1999.
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No Future | 16 | 22m |
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Start on the short steep knobbly white wall about 5m R of GG then up into the R-facing corner with two bushes and up onto the ledge. Move R up the wall and crack and exit on the arete. Good pro where it's needed. Phil Stuart-Jones '95
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Storeman Norman | 20 |
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Start just R of the foot of Gorgeous Groove. Through a roof to slab below large hole (bomber wires #2-4 on right). Traverse R a few moves, then up the arête. Move back L to climb the LH OH. (A direct version goes straight past the hole to the OH on good holds, but poor protection).
Alan Hill, 1999.
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Death By Apathy | 19 |
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Start 4m to the R by red incut. Over bulge to ledge, up wall to gear placements in L-facing corner above shrub. Traverse up and L to join and finish as for No Future.
Alan Hill 2000.
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Gorgeous Groove |
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Places
Type | Title | Link to edit content |
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Wall | Crag V (1 route) |
Comments
Less of it fell down than I
Less of it fell down than I expected. Good to see you tying it together with bolts Grubbie