Crag X

Starts on the left of the crag and seeks the difficulties - very contrived. Move up and right, then up over a bulge into a crack. Carry on up the arete with good pro, exiting just to the left. Lindsay Main '97

A lovely route on good rock at the left end of the crag. Start up a steep short wall just left of the low-level 45 degree roof, moving right three metres up. Continue up and right to exit in the steep crack. Excellent natural pro. Lindsay Main '97

Climb the slab just right of hairline crack. Move left and up through bushes to sharp low angled arete. Climb up the left side of this to an overhang down and left of skyline V notch. Move up and left to good position on prominent prow, and up. Good climbing once past the trees. Two ropes and slings handy. The finish is good.

Start up an easy corner with a harder move just below a ledge with a small tree. Move left and up a slab to exit. Originally soloed but should be protectable. Lindsay Main '97

Done in 28 degree heat. Start below the corner of Be My Guest and boulder up a few moves (pro), then swing left a metre or so to a rat-hole which takes a 3« Friend. (Take care not to fall off into the matagouri). Then up the wall into the groove past two bolts. Rightward to the arete and finish directly up over blocks. You should top out at a very large anchor boulder. Lindsay Main '97

Ascends the obvious right-facing corner, but start a couple of metres right and follow good holds up to the corner and pro. Move right to clip the second bolt of Modern World, then up and flail around for some jugs on the arete. Finish right to the anchor chain. Lindsay Main '97

A powerful route up the left side of the black wall, vaguely following a white streak. Three bolts with chain links. Technical moves to reach the second bolt, then left a little and haul up (beware loose holds) to a ledge with natural pro; then up to the third bolt and the anchor chain on good holds.

A magnificent route up the right side of the black wall and through the overhangs above. Tricky moves with natural pro to the first of three bolts, then past the second bolt on the right and into the overhang on huge jugs past the third bolt to ledges. Anchor at a boulder at the top.

Up the obvious corner right of Gripping Scales, avoiding the lawyer by traversing right on to the ledge halfway up. Beware loose blocks. Place a wire, then clip the bolt and climb the steep wall as for the finish of Black Magic (crux) past another bolt on big holds.

The obvious black arête at the right edge of the main wall. Up on crumbly foot-holds to the first bolt, with a reach to good holds at the second bolt just above. Pull through and place a small cam below easy moves before the headwall steepens above. Move slightly right of the third bolt and climb straight past the fourth bolt through the lip on great holds.

An overhanging weakness about three metres right. Natural pro to reach the first of two bolts to the ledge. Then finish straight up to the right of Black Magic with a wire and a third bolt for pro.

Start at a bush and climb the left-leaning, overhanging crack (crux) to a ledge. Up to another ledge and finish up Something Fishy with two bolts and a wire.

Steep V-chimney/niche. Up on some big holds and move left past the grass; then right to skirt the prow and climb the headwall.

Short wall with a bulge a few metres up and two bolts (the lowest has a hanger and the other has links). The trick is getting stable above the bulge. Anchor chain. Joe Arts '97

Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with reasonable pro from wires. Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with minimal pro from wires.

Vague line a metre right. Rather lichenous and completely lacking in pro. Joe Arts '92

A weakness a metre right with natural pro. Adrienne McLeod '92

A steep wall route through a small roof (crux).

Just before the turn in the cliff. Good cranking through two small roofs with a bolt each, plus another to protect the finish. Joe Arts '92

Very steep arete just right with 4 bolts with links. Start in the corner and go leftwards onto the arete. Good for a pump. Joe Arts '97

Start at TRR and clip the new bolt. Climb the corner crack with shrubs. When the corner ends head up and R (unprotected) to a shrubby ledge. Move left to a rib or flake at left end of slab, up this.

Along the shelf and around the bend is this obvious corner which no longer contains a fuchsia bush. Good bridging with some tricky and committing moves.

Prominent arete with red lichen, climbed on the right. Grunty bouldering start to reach the first bolt - somewhat serious with the three metre drop below the starting ledge. Then on up the wall to the right of the arete past a second bolt.

Indirect start to Cash Cow Machine from the right. Up to a wire placement, then move across to the second bolt and up. Quite steep. Murray Ball '83

A strong line right through the overhangs in the centre of the red wall. There are paired bolts, then natural pro and another bolt.

A direct line through the overhang and up the steep wall above. Four bolts.

Start on the right of the wall up a broken corner, and then up past a bolt on the steep wall above.

A solo route on the arete to the right of Existential Climber, possibly protectable.

Obscure short solo route right of Champagne Breakfast.

On the red pillar below the main cliff, accessed by crashing down through the broom scrub. The route is believed to be up a thin crack on the arete, minimally protected with small wires behind a possibly secure block. The grade is a guess.