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Thief Wall

Type
Part of

Routes Left of Surgical Strike Wall

Walktime
10 min
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Just A Short Juan, 19 19 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 5

10m to the left on The Little Big Rock is this short route. Face climbing to start, followed by steepening climbing on brittle edges.


 Fingers Fred, 20 20 10m 4
0

Climbs the steep edgy wall and groove right of Just a Short Juan. Four bolts
(optional 5th shared with Just a Short Juan). Two chains under the scrub at
the top.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 4

 Weapon Of Mass Destruction, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

more easily found though. Short but quite steep, with good protection. Hardest at the start.


 Pop, 20 20 5m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 5m
  • 2

Great moves. Like a good pop song, should take about 3 minutes. Follow the bolts left-wards through the roof to big jugs. Two-ring anchor.


 The Bomb Factory, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

the corner with deadly looking blocks protruding, which thankfully can be avoided. Single anchor bolt on top


 The End of Print, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

up the crack to the left to an easy finish.


 Simon's Bolted My Climb, 21 21 2
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 2
  • Trad

Struggle up the same start as Group Grope, then place protection and finish up the easy corner-crack. Shares GG's 2-ring anchor.


 Group Grope, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Faint line up the wall leading to a low-angled corner. Boulder problem start past 2 bolts, and continue up the arete past another 2 bolts. 2-ring anchor.


 Eleven Forty, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

weak discontinuous crack running up through two horizontal breaks followed by a stack of bulgy ledges. The grunty start (about 20) is followed by an almost constant easing of the grade through to the top (about 12). Interesting natural pro.


 Cattle Prod, 22 22 15m 4
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 4

Starts on the undercut arete left of the Cattle Thief roof. Boulder up to a break, slightly easier moves over the first bulge to the halfway band, then follow jugs through the bulge above. Originally done with reputedly 'grim' natural pro, but later bolted. The original chain-link anchor a couple of metres back has been replaced by a two-ring anchor just above the top lip.


 Cattle Thief, 23 23 1
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 1
  • Trad

About three metres left there's a route about which nothing is known, with a bolt a few metres up and its own chain anchor at the top. Whoever bolted it and climbed it originally remains un-known, Tony got stuck in, climbed and named it. Start below an old bolt above roof, just right of the "19" crack and to the left of the overhung arete. For maximum pleasure climb directly over the roof to the bolt using layaways, cunning and guile. From the bolt move left and up to the break before going right to a resting ledge. Finish easily up the wide crack above. Bolt belay/ lower off up and right.


 Gutless Wonder, 25 25 4
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 4
  • Trad

Over the roof start on the left and traverse above the man-eating blocks, then climb the left side fo the arete to a ledge and over the large roof.


 Fiesta, 21 21 6
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 6

Boulder up the awkward black groove (crux) above the nasty pointy rock, then left to a rest on the arete. Move right to the next ledge, left up the crack to the top of the pillar, and exit right or left. Originally cleaned on lead on natural pro (copious on the top half, but very sparse at the start), but now has plentiful bolts.


 Quick and Dirty, 18 18 5
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 5

Boulder up the steep black wall below the main corner, or use the easy start to the right. Rest on the ledge, then commit yourself to the steepening corner with loose holds, followed by the climactic loose juggy overhang. Exit left. Originally a trad route, but now you can clip bolts on the neighbouring routes.


 Hotter than Hades, 17 17 4
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 4

Step in from the right, or use the harder direct start (about 20) to the first bolt. Then climb the corner on big holds, but with a couple of reachy moves. Exit left to the "Quick & Dirty" top out. Originally listed as 20, but seems to be getting steadily downgraded.


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