Routes Left of Surgical Strike Wall

(15 routes)

Routes Left of Surgical Strike Wall

Type: 
Wall
Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Just A Short Juan 19
1.02
5bolts 3
10m to the left on The Little Big Rock is this short route. Face climbing to start, followed by steepening climbing on brittle edges.
Simon Courtois, 2001
Fingers Fred 20 10m
0
4bolts
Climbs the steep edgy wall and groove right of Just a Short Juan. Four bolts (optional 5th shared with Just a Short Juan). Two chains under the scrub at the top.
John Entwisle April 2010
Weapon Of Mass Destruction 16
0
wire representing trad
more easily found though. Short but quite steep, with good protection. Hardest at the start.
Lindsay Main, 2003
Pop 20 5m
1.02
2bolts
Great moves. Like a good pop song, should take about 3 minutes. Follow the bolts left-wards through the roof to big jugs. Two-ring anchor.
Marcus Thomas 2000
The Bomb Factory 14
0
wire representing trad
the corner with deadly looking blocks protruding, which thankfully can be avoided. Single anchor bolt on top
Marcus Thomas 2000
The End of Print 16
0
wire representing trad
up the crack to the left to an easy finish.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Simon's Bolted My Climb 21
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Struggle up the same start as Group Grope, then place protection and finish up the easy corner-crack. Shares GG's 2-ring anchor.
Marcus Thomas 1999
Group Grope 21
0
4bolts
Faint line up the wall leading to a low-angled corner. Boulder problem start past 2 bolts, and continue up the arete past another 2 bolts. 2-ring anchor.
Simon Courtois 2000
Eleven Forty 20
0
wire representing trad
weak discontinuous crack running up through two horizontal breaks followed by a stack of bulgy ledges. The grunty start (about 20) is followed by an almost constant easing of the grade through to the top (about 12). Interesting natural pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones 96
Cattle Prod 22 15m
0
4bolts
Starts on the undercut arete left of the Cattle Thief roof. Boulder up to a break, slightly easier moves over the first bulge to the halfway band, then follow jugs through the bulge above. Originally done with reputedly 'grim' natural pro, but later bolted. The original chain-link anchor a couple of metres back has been replaced by a two-ring anchor just above the top lip.
Tony Burnell 99
Cattle Thief 23
0
1bolts wire representing trad
About three metres left there's a route about which nothing is known, with a bolt a few metres up and its own chain anchor at the top. Whoever bolted it and climbed it originally remains un-known, Tony got stuck in, climbed and named it. Start below an old bolt above roof, just right of the "19" crack and to the left of the overhung arete. For maximum pleasure climb directly over the roof to the bolt using layaways, cunning and guile. From the bolt move left and up to the break before going right to a resting ledge. Finish easily up the wide crack above. Bolt belay/ lower off up and right.
Tony Burnell 96
Gutless Wonder 25
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Over the roof start on the left and traverse above the man-eating blocks, then climb the left side fo the arete to a ledge and over the large roof.
Tony Burnell 99
Fiesta 21
0
6bolts
Boulder up the awkward black groove (crux) above the nasty pointy rock, then left to a rest on the arete. Move right to the next ledge, left up the crack to the top of the pillar, and exit right or left. Originally cleaned on lead on natural pro (copious on the top half, but very sparse at the start), but now has plentiful bolts.
Phil Stuart-Jones, 1996
Quick and Dirty 18
0
5bolts
Boulder up the steep black wall below the main corner, or use the easy start to the right. Rest on the ledge, then commit yourself to the steepening corner with loose holds, followed by the climactic loose juggy overhang. Exit left. Originally a trad route, but now you can clip bolts on the neighbouring routes.
Phil Stuart-Jones 96
Hotter than Hades 17
0
4bolts 2
Step in from the right, or use the harder direct start (about 20) to the first bolt. Then climb the corner on big holds, but with a couple of reachy moves. Exit left to the "Quick & Dirty" top out. Originally listed as 20, but seems to be getting steadily downgraded.
Simon Courtois 2012