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Little Eiger Wall

Type
Altitude
400m
Part of

The Little Eiger Wall is a 10m Eiger N face look alike, containing the first five routes listed. Just around to the right, but included in this section is Dwarf Wall, with three routes, the last being Cattlestop Cowboy. Immediately right of this, and also included here, is Will and Dave's Wall, named to commemorate two mountain guides. Will and Dave's Wall is in two sections - the first above a large boulder, and the second to the right on a green lichen-covered wall immediately behind the now redundant Christchurch City Council sign. Each section of this wall has three routes.

Image
Walktime
10 min
Aspect
West
Access

Follow the cliff base track towards Britten Crag, past Surgical Strike wall, past the gully base with a Christchurch City Council sign and this little wall can be found after another 25m. The DBA above "Negotiating With a Toddler" services the first five climbs.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 False Pretences, 16 16 13m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 13m
  • Trad

Climbers left arete, graded for the start, otherwise an 11, still pleasant and worthwhile.


 Working Bee, 16 16 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 4

Start just left of "Curry Corner" and at the top avoid the easy exit of "False Pretences" and stick to the face.


 Curry Corner, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

A shallow broken groove, naturally protected with reasonable gear, trending slightly right to finish in a V-niche.


 Negotiating with a toddler, 18 18 10m 5
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • 5

Climb the features to the left of the line of closely spaced bolts, pulling up on the block, which is well locked in. Overhanging and sustained to the top.


 Baby Steps, 16 16 11m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 11m
  • Trad

Climbers right arete, takes a smaller range of protection, particularly for the airy finish.


 Scooping Booty, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Around the corner and twelve metres right. Start up a thin crack with a tussock on black rock, moving left to gain the blocks on the left, and finish up the corner. Spaced protection. Anchor to a bolt.


 Revenge Of The Wedges, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Overhanging blocky-looking line on black rock a metre right, just beside the large overhang. Worth-while climbing on excellent rock with good natural protection.


 Cattlestop Cowboy, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21

Short route up a stepped roof on the right side of the overhang, traversing leftward from a good hold and then up past the second bolt. Two bolts. Anchor to a bolt about five metres left.


 Blonde Tornado, 20 20 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 4

This is the first climb on the next wall - Will and Dave's Wall. Start on the ground to the left of the block. Hard off the ground past first bolt – use a single locking 'biner on the first bolt to reduce length of fall. Past 3 more bolts to DRA.


 6C Jones, 17 17 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 3

From the top of the block clip the first bolt, step up left onto the face past 2 more bolts to DRA.


 Triple A Triple 5, 17 17 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 3

Start from either on top of the block or on the right hand side of the block – layback past first bolt and up past 2 more bolts to DRA.


 Dumbo, 13 13 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 10m
  • 3

This is the first route on the more south-facing section of the wall. The hangers have been removed - presumably because of loose blocks. Slightly rounded holds at the bottom lead to easy finish. Three bolts & DRA.


 Twisted Hip, 14 14 10m 5
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • 5

A steep start and up. Five bolts & DRA. In memory of Dave Hiddleston, who died on Mt Tasman while guiding in 2003.


 Will's Way, 14 14 10m 5
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • 5

This climb follows the right side of the slab. Five bolts & DRA. In memory of Will MacQueen, who died on the Fox Glacier in 2003.


Comments
climber53

Hi Lindsay, I’ve been putting a full guide together for Britten, but for Dwarf & CPW I am only putting a Topo and will add them to the Cattle Stop Guide next update.

Sun, 09/08/2020 - 09:20 Permalink
Lindsay Main

After Justin added some routes here under the above name as part of Cattlestop, not realising that the crag was listed for Britten Crags under the Dwarf Wall name, I decided to redraw the boundary at Couch Potato Wall.

Fri, 07/08/2020 - 21:53 Permalink
climber53

I’ll try again without the history background, maybe it would be better if Dwarf Wall and Couch Potato wall were integrated into the overall Cattlestop area and not the Britten Crag area?

Fri, 07/08/2020 - 08:48 Permalink
climber53

This wall, as shown in the picture above, is actually part of Dwarf Wall and forms part of the Britten Crag section, some of the trad lines were climbed by Joe Arts, Lindsay Main and Marcus a few years previous to the date of 2016 as indicated above.

Thu, 06/08/2020 - 22:53 Permalink
UUID
 
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