

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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CtE | Close to the Edge | 20 | 20m |
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Start just left of ‘Fragile’. Start directly below the first bolt. Climb
up to the wall to the left trending feature, make some awkward moves to gain
a shallow corner. Climb straight up past the last bolt and traverse
delicately right and up to the chain belay of ‘Fragile’.
Tony Burnell
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Fragile | 20 | 20m |
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Traverse round to the right of the crag past a flax bush to the foot of wall,
black and slabby at the right hand side. Start directly below the first bolt.
Climb up to the shallow niche and exit slightly leftwards at the top.
Continue straight up to a chain belay.
Tony Burnell
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RD | Rain Dancer | 20 | 28m |
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Start Left of the yellow wall, climb wall to shrubby ledge at 12m. Step up &
right onto white wall, climb centre of wall to belay
Grant piper
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SS | Stanley Street | 20 | 25m |
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Takes a line up the left side of the buttress starting down and left of the
belay chain at the foot of “Gas Guzzler” Start lower than ‘Gas
Guzzler’ and just left of a vague crack/groove system. Climb the black wall
left of the groove system on good holds. An awkward move at half height gets
you to the foot of the groove (as for GG). Climb the left side of the groove
to the roof, exit up the left side of the roof to a belay on the right. You
can clip the first bolt on GG if necessary.
Tony Burnell
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Gas Guzzler | 20 | 25m |
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Gas Guzzler takes a line on the right side of the buttress; start just right
of the belay chain. Climb the yellow tinted wall on good holds to a large
hole; continue straight up to the groove, climb the right side of the groove
to the roof, exit up the right side of the roof to a belay on the left.
Tony Burnell
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NM | Night Moves | 18 | 25m |
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Initially climbed in the dark, a route that has everything. Start up an easy
slabby wall and continue up the corner. Climb the ever-steepening corner till
it becomes a chimney. Carry on up the chimney till you reach vegetation and
a bolt on the right wall. Swing out onto the face of right wall and move up
to a belay on a ledge.
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RD | Rising Damp | 21 | 22m |
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Starts as for ‘NM’, after the first bolt move right and into the obvious
open groove. Climb the steepening groove till it gives out continue up the
upper wall to the belay of ‘NM’.
Tony Burnell
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FLF | Full Length Feature | 18 | 30m |
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Start at toe of butress, climb daigonally right to foot of large prow. Climb
the weakness in the wall 3m left of the prow.
Grant Piper
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Looser Cruiser | 17 | 30m |
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Start as for FLF and climb diagonally right across the face as for FLF. Move
right to the prow and climb the wall just left of the prow. Exit left at top
to rapchains on FLF
Grant Piper
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Excursion | 19 | 20m |
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Start as for “BOF” at the first bolt move left onto the arête and climb
it to the last bolt of “BOF”, move out right and up to a DBB.
Tony Burnell
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BF | Bridging Over Flora | 17 | 30m |
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Start as for FLF to the 6th bolt, then go round right under the nose to the
base of a corner. Bridge up the corner to the 5th bolt before moving out on
to the left wall and up to a DBB.
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TWS | Thin Wall Special | 20 | 20m |
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Start just right of “BOF”, climb the wall technically until you get to
the 5th bolt. Step left and bridge up the corner to the before moving left
wall to the DBB of “BOF”.
Tony Burnell
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Cn | Conundrum | 24 | 18m |
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Start at the fence directly below the first bolt. Climb the shallow corner to
the base of the steep wall. Climb the wall first slightly left between second
and third bolts, move rightwards at the third then up and back left to the
last bolt, continue up the pink tinged wall on better holds to belay in a
shallow pod.
Tony Burnell
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HM | Boyzone | 22 | 20m |
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Start 2.0m left of the fence directly below the first bolt. Climb the wall to
the base of the groove which is climbed awkwardly, at the top of the groove
(3rd bolt) move right onto the steep face and continue up to the 4th bolt, on
your left, up again to the feminine features before an awkward move right
leads to better holds and easier climbing to the belay of “Conundrum”.
Tony Burnell
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Easterly Breeze | 16 | 20m |
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Start as for Hall Mark past the first two bolts then move left and up in to
the groove. Bridge up the groove, above the last bolt step out right on with
good holds and move up to the belay of Hall Mark.
Tony Burnell
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Bz | Hall Mark | 24 | 20m |
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Start 2.0 metres down and right of the fence line at a short right facing
corner. Climb the corner onto the slab and move up to a short rib to the base
of the central wall. Climb the centre of the wall on small holds.
Tony Burnell
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Prickly Cold | 23 | 20m |
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Start as for Hall Mark past the first bolt then move right and up to the
roof, turn it on its right side using small holds. Continue up to a hanging
crack with good at the top. Move left to the last bolt of Hall Mark and then
up to the belay.
Tony Burnell
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Comments
Went and checked the hangers
Went and checked the hangers they are both fine, the surface rust is more tarnishing, there is no pitting or flaking
Hi nogger77, you need to get
Hi nogger77, you need to get amongst it and replace them
Hangers on the two rap bolts
Hangers on the two rap bolts appear to be rusted through and through
This is a great little crag.
This is a great little crag. We went on a week night and only climbed three or four routes each as the approach takes about 45min by the time you abseil to the base. I felt as though most climbs were over graded by a grade or two. My thoughts on grades - Rain Dancer ***19, Gas Guzler **18 (sustained, and slightly overhanging but big holds), Night Moves *16-17.
Nice crag in a cool spot. My
Nice crag in a cool spot. My suggestions on grades/stars etc:
Rain Dancer: *** 18-19 Good steady route
Stanley St: 19 Bit fragile and run out
Gas Guzzler: ** 20 Nice
Rising Damp: * 21
FLF: 17
BOF: * 16
TWS ** 20 Nice
BoyZone 22 Quite brittle holds, needs traffic
Easterly Breez Quite brittle holds, needs traffic
Fully bolted!
Fully bolted!
Hard to tell, is this fully
Hard to tell, is this fully bolted, or do some routes need gear?
A fantastic crag.
A fantastic crag.