Mt Glenmary

There are no recorded ascent of Glenmary beginning in the Dobson but the south east ridge to the summit is an obvious climb. Access via Sutherland Stream leads up a steep couloir to the col at 2300m. Alternative access to the south east ridge can be gained from Jamieson Stream or from the lower Hopkins Valley.

From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant glacier on the south side of Glenmary. Angle up the slope to reach the col overlooking Sutherland Stream and commence ascent of the summit pyramid. The ridge is airy and narrow, over a kilometre in length, and appears to provide a rewarding climb. Descent can be via the standard north west face route.

From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant glacier on the south side of Glenmary. The 750m high face and central couloir, which is visible from Monument Hut, provides an interesting mixed rock and ice route in summer, and finishes on the east ridge 100m from the summit. The rock on the lower section of the zigzag is fractured and requires plenty of concentration.

From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest to the foot of the ridge. Towers on the ridge are turned by sidling across both west and north faces. The first ascent party were benighted high on the ridge - they were the first party to discover that the route is long and requires considerable time on the sometimes friable rock. A challenging climb.

From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest into the basin at the foot of the face. Or, commenc e the North West face route 3.08, and climb over the North West ridge near H37, GR 596 885 drop 200m altitude to reach the base of west face. A blunt arête provides the obvious feature on the broad face, with two bluffy sections guarding the summit pyramid. Zigzagup the face to the summit.

From Dasler Bivouac sidle under the Dasler Pinnacles, gain height up the gully and ascend Glenmary via the obvious snowpatch, and solid red rock. This is the normal descent route from the mountain.