There are no recorded ascent of Glenmary beginning in the Dobson but the
south east ridge to the summit is an obvious climb. Access via Sutherland
Stream leads up a steep couloir to the col at 2300m. Alternative access to
the south east ridge can be gained from Jamieson Stream or from the lower
Hopkins Valley.
From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant
glacier on the south side of Glenmary. Angle up the slope to reach the col
overlooking Sutherland Stream and commence ascent of the summit pyramid. The
ridge is airy and narrow, over a kilometre in length, and appears to provide
a rewarding climb. Descent can be via the standard north west face route.
From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant
glacier on the south side of Glenmary. The 750m high face and central
couloir, which is visible from Monument Hut, provides an interesting mixed
rock and ice route in summer, and finishes on the east ridge 100m from the
summit. The rock on the lower section of the zigzag is fractured and requires
plenty of concentration.
From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest to the foot
of the ridge. Towers on the ridge are turned by sidling across both west and
north faces. The first ascent party were benighted high on the ridge - they
were the first party to discover that the route is long and requires
considerable time on the sometimes friable rock. A challenging climb.
From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest into the
basin at the foot of the face. Or, commenc e the North West face route 3.08,
and climb over the North West ridge near H37, GR 596 885 drop 200m altitude
to reach the base of west face. A blunt arête provides the obvious feature
on the broad face, with two bluffy sections guarding the summit pyramid.
Zigzagup the face to the summit.
From Dasler Bivouac sidle under the Dasler Pinnacles, gain height up the
gully and ascend Glenmary via the obvious snowpatch, and solid red rock. This
is the normal descent route from the mountain.