Wrinkle Buttress

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

English Summer Daze

18,18,18

90m

²

Begin 100m upstream and uphill from the prominent bulgy face with a roof at top on true left of Twin Stream. Grade 18, 18, 18 with ledges at end of each pitch. The second pitch heads out left and climbs around the edge of an enormous flake - exciting climbing! A direct second pitch was climbed with Dave Brash at grade 17. Scramble a short distance down the slope to a spike and rap 30 m down to the top of an adjacent buttress. Another 45 m rap off another spike will land you on a ledge system. Follow this around to the start of the route.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	18	30m	Yes
2	18	30m	Yes
3	18	30m	Yes

Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater Nov 2003. Dave Brash, Steve Carr (direct second pitch - grade 17) Feb 2004.

Mr Fizz

15,22

50m

9

²

A two pitch climb that begins from the first belay on 'Wrinkle'.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	15	20m		Yes
	Up and left along a fracture line to a bolted belay left of the big roof.
2	22	30m	9	Yes
	A classic line up the beautiful wall above. Take a bunch of small cams and wires. At the top, scramble down the ledge and pick up the belay anchors at the top of 'Wrinkle'. 30 m rap to another belay station. 40 m rap to ground.

Bill Bradshaw, Steve Carr April 2004

Wrinkle

14,16

70m

5

²

Angle rightwards from a point high on the scree slope to a bolted belay on a ledge.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	14	40m	4	Yes
	Angle rightwards from a point high on the scree slope to a bolted belay on a ledge.
2	16	30m	1	Yes
	Head out towards the right hand edge of the roof and into a groove. Up this to a bolt then traverse left to the anchors.

Murray Judge, Steve Carr 2003

(3 routes)