Sunshine Buttress

Type

Part of

100 metres upriver from Red Rock Buttress, a clean upper wall has a prominent fin below it and is bounded on the right side by a permanent stream and gorge. The start of the two scramble pitches is 25 minutes across and upriver of the main camping area at the base of the Central Buttress.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Access, 12	12	150m		0
P1 12 50m Trad Start from the grassy knoll on the true right of the stream where it emerges from the gorge. Easy climbing with some natural protection on good rock leads to a bolt belay. P2 12 20m Trad Head for the corner formed by Sunshine Coast wall and the rock fin. P3 12 80m Trad Follow the corner to a sensational bolt belay stance on the apex of the fin.
	Born Under a Bad Wine, 19	19	50m		0
P1 19 50m The arête, with a bold crux.
	Sunshine Coast, 20	20	50m	6	2.01
P1 20 50m 6 Trad Wonderful steep climbing up the open groove with seams yielding beautiful wire placements to the overlap at 28m. Move left above the overlap to finish up the left-hand line of bolts. Double ropes recommended. The direct start (20) is almost as good. The bolted right-hand finish (23) has not been led.
	Chercher le Soleil, 23	23	50m	6	1.02
P1 23 50m 6 Trad The right-hand finish to Sunshine Coast (23), not yet led.
	Worth the Walk, 20	20	50m	6	1.02
P1 20 50m 6 Trad The direct start to Sunshine Coast.
	Brash Judge, 15	15	80m		0
P1 15 50m Trad Start 30m below the apex of the fin and climb the wide crack. There may be bolt anchors. P2 14 30m Trad Continue up the crack. To descend use the Sunshine Coast anchors.
	Cop Out, 17	17	85m		1.02
A pleasant hand/finger crack line running directly up a face of clean pink rock, on good gear. Gear anchors. Approach via the 'access route', rap Sunshine Coast. It generally climbs 2m left of a black, shaley gully. Follows the pink line on the photo of the guidebook page. P1 17 30m Trad Straight up off the ledge, somewhat steeply. Jog slightly right then back left to pass a roof; belay close to where the angle eases. P2 15 15m A shorter pitch, to an awkward belay. Option to extend further. P3 17 40m Trad A long pitch of quality rockclimbing directly up splitter cracks, the rope running straight up. You may have to belay just below the lip, or a long way back from the top(& extend the belay).

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5beebcd2-0a7c-46ea-84be-339919c46693