Sunshine Buttress

(6 routes)

100 metres upriver from Red Rock Buttress, a clean upper wall has a prominent fin below it and is bounded on the right side by a permanent stream and gorge. The start of the two scramble pitches is 25 minutes across and upriver of the main camping area at the base of the Central Buttress.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Born Under a Bad Wine 19 50m
0
The arête, with a bold crux.
Steve Carr, May 2000
Sunshine Coast 20
2.01
The bolted slab left of the wide cracks.
Dave Brash, Laimonis Kavalieris, January 2000
Chercher le Soleil 23
1.02
Wonderful steep climbing up the open groove with seams yielding beautiful wire placements to the overlap at 28m. Then bolts protect the crux, direct grade 23 but not yet led.
Dave Brash, January 2000
Access route and wide cracks 12 ,12 ,15 ,14
0
Start from the grassy knoll on the true right of the permanent stream where it emerges from the gorge. Easy but poorly protected climbing on good rock to the double rig bolts 5m left of the gully and a rope stretching 50m up. Head for the corner formed by Sunshine Coast wall and the rock fin. Round the corner, steeper climbing up the wide crack. Has a fixed abseil line from top.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1120mNo
 

TBA

2120mNo
 

TBA

3150mNo
 

TBA

4140mNo
 

TBA

Dave Brash, Murray Judge, December 1999
Worth the Walk 20 50m
1.02
Start up Chercher le Soleil and finish up Sunshine Coast.
Cop Out 17,15,17 85m
1.02
wire representing trad 2
A pleasant hand/finger crack line running directly up a face of clean pink rock, on good gear. Gear anchors. Approach via the 'access route', rap Sunshine Coast. It generally climbs 2m left of a black, shaley gully. Follows the pink line on the photo of the guidebook page.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11730mYes
 

Straight up off the ledge, somewhat steeply. Jog slightly right then back left to pass a roof; belay close to where the angle eases.

21515mNo
 

A shorter pitch, to an awkward belay. Option to extend further.

31740mYes
 

A long pitch of quality rockclimbing directly up splitter cracks, the rope running straight up. You may have to belay just below the lip, or a long way back from the top(& extend the belay).

Dave Brash, Craig McVie, November 2000 (p1 & 2)
UUID: 
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