The Lower Wall

The Central Buttress and the walls to its left and right are split at half height by a broad terrace which can be gained from the scree at its left end. Just down from this point are some narrow inset slabs are the following climbs.

Type:

Wall

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Wild Coyote

TBA

Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, March 1998

Spare Rib

TBA

Murray Judge, Toby Judge, November 1997

Hidden Slab

19 ,17

TBA

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	19	0m	No
	TBA
2	17	0m	No
	TBA

Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, January 1997

Secrets and Lies

TBA

Murray Judge, Al Mark, April 1997

Stony Showers

14 ,17

85m

Right of Hidden Slab are some grooves slanting right. A varied and fun climb.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	14	45m	Yes
	Follow groove and crack systems to ledge above Peanut Slab. Be careful of loose blocks. BB
2	17	40m	Yes
	Follow the crack left of the BB and over ledges to a thin slab. Move though the overlap and traverse left on flakes to exit groove. BB

Tony Pine, Jonathan Clearwater, November 1997

Peanut Slab

TBA

Murray Judge, Sam Brooks, Jonathan Clearwater, November 1997

My Evil Twin

15 ,20 ,17

Climb first pitch of Wily Spaniard.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	15	0m	No
	Climb first pitch of Wily Spaniard.
2	20	0m	No
	Clip two bolts of second pitch of Wily Spaniard then up flakes past bolt, step left and through small roof to bolt belay.
3	17	0m	No
	Up and left to crack up to ledge, 2m right to crack moving right at the top to belay of Wily Spaniard.

Dave Brash, Simon Kennedy, February1999

Wily Spaniard

15 ,19 ,16

A three pitch climb with varied and intricate climbing. Great second pitch.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	15	0m	No
	TBA
2	19	0m	No
	TBA
3	16	0m	No
	TBA

Murray Judge, Sam Brooks, November 19

Faultline

12 ,19 ,21

Up to a belay on the top of a pillar that sits below a right leaning roof.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	12	0m	4	No
	Up to a belay on the top of a pillar that sits below a right leaning roof.
2	19	0m	6	No
	Move left across the wall and rock over onto the slabs above. Up the slabs to a steep wall/arete.Surmount this to a ledge belay.
3	21	0m	6	No
	Two options to finish: Faultline continues straight above the belay heading for the apex of the diagonal roof on excellent rock. A variant (Twister) heads out to the right before eventually curving back to join Faultline at the top bolt.

Steve Carr, Al Mark, March 1999

This place appears in

Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: a guide for climbers

2001

UUID:

3897c371-002a-4e92-a568-4993dfb4af1f

(9 routes)

This place appears in