2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Canterbury
  5. Ben Ohau Range
  6. Twin Stream
  7. The Lower Wall

The Lower Wall

(9 routes)

The Central Buttress and the walls to its left and right are split at half height by a broad terrace which can be gained from the scree at its left end. Just down from this point are some narrow inset slabs are the following climbs.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Wild Coyote 18
0
TBA
Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, March 1998
Spare Rib 19
0
TBA
Murray Judge, Toby Judge, November 1997
Hidden Slab 19 ,17
0
TBA
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mNo
 TBA
2170mNo
 TBA
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, January 1997
Secrets and Lies 21
0
TBA
Murray Judge, Al Mark, April 1997
Stony Showers 14 ,17 85m
0
 wire representing trad
Right of Hidden Slab are some grooves slanting right. A varied and fun climb.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11445mYes
 Follow groove and crack systems to ledge above Peanut Slab. Be careful of loose blocks. BB
21740mYes
 Follow the crack left of the BB and over ledges to a thin slab. Move though the overlap and traverse left on flakes to exit groove. BB
Tony Pine, Jonathan Clearwater, November 1997
Peanut Slab 19
1.02
TBA
Murray Judge, Sam Brooks, Jonathan Clearwater, November 1997
My Evil Twin 15 ,20 ,17
1.02
Climb first pitch of Wily Spaniard.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mNo
 Climb first pitch of Wily Spaniard.
2200mNo
 Clip two bolts of second pitch of Wily Spaniard then up flakes past bolt, step left and through small roof to bolt belay.
3170mNo
 Up and left to crack up to ledge, 2m right to crack moving right at the top to belay of Wily Spaniard.
Dave Brash, Simon Kennedy, February1999
Wily Spaniard 15 ,19 ,16
1.02
A three pitch climb with varied and intricate climbing. Great second pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mNo
 TBA
2190mNo
 TBA
3160mNo
 TBA
Murray Judge, Sam Brooks, November 19
Faultline 12 ,19 ,21
1.02
 16bolts
Up to a belay on the top of a pillar that sits below a right leaning roof.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1120m4No
 Up to a belay on the top of a pillar that sits below a right leaning roof.
2190m6No
 Move left across the wall and rock over onto the slabs above. Up the slabs to a steep wall/arete.Surmount this to a ledge belay.
3210m6No
 Two options to finish: Faultline continues straight above the belay heading for the apex of the diagonal roof on excellent rock. A variant (Twister) heads out to the right before eventually curving back to join Faultline at the top bolt.
Steve Carr, Al Mark, March 1999

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